I made up a cardboard template that fit as closely as I could get it, to the
rear shelf area and up to the inside of the top. Took that to a local fab shop
(Guyon Racing), and had them bend up a hoop to fit inside the borders of the
cardboard. I had them use 1.75 x .120" ERW tubing, which is good enough for the
sanctioning bodies around here. I took it home along with enough extra tubing to
make a diagonal and two rear stays, welded four 4 x 5 x 1/8" plates into the
car, and then welded the hoop and stays to the plates. It took a bunch more
effort than getting a 'show bar' out of one of the catalogs, but it pretty much
fit the way I wanted (with the rear stays attached on top of the rear wheel
arches), and I know what I've got in there.
Any local race shop should be able to do the same for you, but I guess it might
cost up to $500 depending on how much of the prep work and cleanup you do.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Barrett [SMTP:firstname.lastname@example.org]
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 4:39 PM
> To: RayKReese@aol.com
> Cc: email@example.com
> Subject: Re: Door panels
> At 12:06 PM 5/20/99 EDT, you wrote:
> >Hi gang:
> >Does anyone have a nice set of tan MK1A door panels that they would like to
> >Also, does anyone have any information regarding hoop style roll bars?
> Some of the roll bars for Tigers are spliced in the center.
> The weld is ground smooth to hide the fact. I broke mine during
> installation, so I assume it wouldn't hold up much in a roll over.
> Some racing orgizations dissallow this type of bar. You need
> a one piece bar to be safe.
> James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others