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Re: Traction Master Bolt-ons

To: laceyf@crosslink.net
Subject: Re: Traction Master Bolt-ons
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 09:16:47 -0700
Mark Fridenstine wrote:

> Steve:
>     I have a set of Bolt on traction bars I bought form a guy in Wash. State, 
>about a
> year ago. Are they hard to put on by myself, of do I need a mechanic???
>         Thank, Mark

Mark,

Not sure whose you bought, but I hope it has not got those heim swivel ball 
joints, or
you have your eye-teeth anchored firmly.  I believe Larry Atkinsson made a very 
nice
set.  On his last run I was ordering some, when he recommended the new Traction 
Master
production run.

In either event, installation is not difficult.  There are a few tricks, of 
course.  The
New Traction Master design has all four holes in the bottom plate, instead of 
the
original 3.  Never understood that original design, but if yours are like that, 
you have
to get longer U-bolts, and trim the excess after, as it goes under the existing 
plate.
The newer design replaces the plate, so the same bolts are fine (if they are in 
good
shape.  You might want to consider a locking type nut.

Before you start unbolting those plates, you better jack the car up, put 
supports on the
body, and remove the wheels.

The front end of the spring must be changed.  BOTH of the straps around the 
front spring
bundle must be turned so that the clamp bolt is on top.  These should have 
rubber
between the clamp and the spring pack.  Replace the rubber if it's bad.  This 
is easy
enough, as you just remove the bolt, spread the clamp a bit, and rotate it 
around and
re-tighten.  You should mount the Traction Master on the U-Bolts before you 
tighten the
forward clamp loosely, so it is just behind where the bar clamp will go.

There is a small plate under the 4 hole original plate.  Remember to put it 
back.  The
bolt through the springs just goes through the holes in the plates, like normal.

Taking the U-Bolts off is easy, but they tend to spread after removal, and may 
need to
have the sides squeezed together to fit back in.  A very large clamp, or a very 
strong
friend can help compress it to fit back into the holes. A large slotted pliers 
may help.
The bar should point forward, with the flat part of the front angle able to 
swing
against the front of the spring.  If it's the vertical part of the angle, 
you've got it
facing the wrong way.  {9->

After you have torqued the U-bolts, then bring the front clamp up to the 
forward spring,
ahead of the spring clamp.  Use the bolts supplies (grade 8) and the upper flat 
piece
and lightly put the piece together.  I used some rubber gasket around this 
clamp to
prevent metal-to-metal contact, and potential wear, and sharp corner forces at 
the
clamp.  Your call.

Put the wheels back on, bring the car down, drive around the block a few times, 
and let
it cool down.  By this time the springs should be at their normal ride height.  
Don't
jack the car back up again, or you would lose the ride height.   Clamp the 
front bar
assembly tightly, then slide the spring clamp forward and tighten it.  You're 
done.

You may find the ride a bit choppier, and stiffer, but that's because you have
effectively made half your spring inflexible.  There seems to be less body 
roll, too.  I
have adjustable rear Koni shocks, but haven't touched them.  They are at the 
factory
setting.  Wouldn't be sure which way to turn them, as it seems OK, with maybe 
less
bottoming on speed bumps. The axle wrap up disappeared, and I get no hop when 
leaving
rubber.

May be some added stresses in the front spring clamp area, and if you are 
really going
to treat it roughly, as in Auto-X or competition racing, you might consider 
beefing up
this front chassis area with web plates before installing.

Remove front spring eye to prevent weld heat damage.  Shouldn't be necessary 
unless you
have an Alpine chassis (with fewer continuous welds, I am told) or weakening 
due to
rust.  I have heard that the front spring clamp tends to cause premature 
cracking around
the clamped area, but do not know this for a fact.  The other weld-on choice 
has so many
other problems that this is the better choice, in my opinion.


Hope that helps.

Steve


Anybody out there want to assemble my collection of suspension comments, from 
the list
members, for the web site??????

--
Steve Laifman         < Find out what is most     >
B9472289              < important in your life    >
                      < and don't let it get away!>

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