Larry,
I just finished this same replacement. Two tricks I would recommend. I
used a heavy chain with one end bolted to the pinion flange and the other
wrapped around/bolted to the frame or suspension. All this is to keep the
pinion from turning while undoing the nut on the pinion. The other is to
heat the pinion nut. Mine would not come off until heated. Remember to
torque it properly upon re-installation. Taking the old seal out is fairly
straightforward. Stick a screwdriver/punch or some other stiff metal object
into the hole and pry it out. Nothing inside to worry about except where
the seal itself mounts. I used a little sealer around the new seal for good
measure.
Jim Morrison
----- Original Message -----
From: Wright, Larry <larry.wright@usop.com>
To: National Corporation (E-mail) <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 7:39 AM
Subject: inquiry 102199b (20.75)
> "underneath", installment 20-3/4
>
> I still don't know what to do with either the fuel pump or
> differential leaks, but I thought it best to have a backup plan. Last
> night we placed an order with Sunbeam Specialties.
> First, I have a new pinion seal on the way, an air-freight (!)
> order for Friday. I'm guessing that there won't be a way to get the
> existing one to stop leaking (although I'd be very interested in any
> ideas!!!), so perhaps the alternative is to install a new one.
> That raises more questions. Primarily, how to get the old one
> out, and can it be done with the diff installed in the car? Any caveats
> about whatever is _behind_ the seal, and avoiding damaging any of it
> while pulling the seal? Any tricks to popping the new one in? I was
> thinking of sticking the new one in the freezer overnight to get it to
> shrink a bit, that has helped on other parts before. How about a smear
> of Permatex around the rim? And is this seal the primary, or even only,
> item keeping the oil in or are there other seals/gaskets I should be
> looking at?
> The fuel pump issue is a bit stickier. Apparently there is no
> "rebuild kit" that would enable replacing just the leaking gaskets; the
> recommendation was to pick up some gasket material from a hardware store
> and _make_ one. Ick! Especially those little ones that go behind the
> double-male threaded fitting where the fuel lines attach.
> Sorry again for all of the questions; TIA for any feedback.
>
> Lawrence R. Wright, Purchasing Analyst
> U S Office Products, Mid-Atlantic District
> Formerly Andrews Office Products
> larry.wright@usop.com (new)
> Ph. 301.386.7923 Fx. 301.386.5333
>
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