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Re: Need one of those frames

To: DCStory@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need one of those frames
From: Steve Laifman <Laifman@Flash.Net>
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:20:25 +0000
DCStory@aol.com wrote:

> My wife bought me a box of rubbers
> for Christmas, the Sunbeam kind to replace my aging cracked rubber pieces.  I
> was going to start with the trunk.  It looks too easy ... it appears to just
> press on.  Is it really that simple?  Or is there something special that I
> need to do or a special technique I need to apply for it to have the correct
> fit.
>
> Don in San Dimas

Don,

Piece of pie.  Simple as cake.  Unless the PO was in love with trim cement. Not
much used on a Tiger.  As long as you bought the good rubber from our reliable
sources, you should have no special problems, but there ARE a few tricks.

If your trunk lip rubber does not have a steel core, throw it away and get the 
one
that does.

If your headlight housing rubber does not have the screw tubes, and is just 
flat,
throw it away and get the one that does.

These signs indicate you did not get the right source, and you will have nothing
but trouble with the rest of the rubber, as well.  If all is as described, not 
too
bad a trip ahead.

Sunbeam does not use trim cement for the rubber draft seals.  They generally 
snap
over a lip, and are held on by the inner steel spring material, with a few pop
rivets in strategic locations.  Didn't even have to use the one the factory did 
on
the windshield/door seal that has a severe bend.

The other kind of fastening is putting a dual lipped bottom section into a pop
riveted steel channel about  3/4 inch wide.  This would be around the doors, on
the underside of the later design hard top, on the front hard top (maybe soft 
top)
windshield seal.  Most can be put in with a plastic 1 1/2 inch putty knife.
Starting at one end, put one 'lip' under the curved steel section. Use the putty
knife and finger pressure to compress/deform the bottom rubber lip to slip over
the steel edge, and then snap in.  Work your way all the way around until your 
at
the other end.  Try not stretching the rubber.  I should really be able to 
slide a
little in the channel.  If you end up with an extra foot of rubber at the other
end, it's probably stretched, and you need to use your fingers to work it into 
an
un-stretched condition.  The end of either section may have been peened in to 
hold
the rubber end.  Opening this up with a flat bladed screw driver will make
insertion possible, and re-bending after relieving stretch finishes the job.

The front hard top seal is very thick, and not as easy to compress.  May need 
two
sets of hands, and two putty knives.  Remember, on this piece (as well as other
hardtop rubber) there are screws to deal with.  One at each end of the front 
seal,
an number under the windshield/window seal, and same with the top window seal on
the hard top (may be the same on the convertible top, but I've never replaced
mine, so don't know).

The back hardtop side window seal is tricky, as it is held in by an aluminum 
strip
screwed to the vertical post.  There is a left and a right, so don't lose track,
or none will fit.  The side window rubber is very complex shape and I worked my
*ss off trying to get it to fit.  After giving up and going to an upholstery 
shop
for help, I finally got it in.  Seemed like more rubber than opening.  A little
embarrassed when Rick (of Sunbeam Specialties) pointed out I had them on the 
wrong
side.  With no labels, pictures, or directions, I wish you luck here.  Anyway,
after all that work I left it as was and it seems OK.  Wouldn't want to toggle
seal those windows, anyway, as the Plexiglas side windows would be under a good
deal of strain at the "button" and it could crack the plastic.

I extended the front window/door seal (furflex) below the stock location to try 
to
seal off that area that daylight shows through with the stock length.  A 
'little'
trim cement at the end may stop it form flopping, as the support ends higher up.

Good luck on the side window trim, windshield pop riveted seals and channels.
This is too tricky for a 'quick' explanation, and there are 'tricks' for the
window channels and the rain drip seals and spring clips, as well as the door/
inner trim plastic sheet replacement, and the hard top under head liner 
insulation
replacement.

Last word of caution.  The rear hard top rubber and trim is tricky, and few get 
it
right.  The front window glass rubber is a 'pro" job, and the window frame-body
seal has two rubber tapered adjustment wedges that you better find, in amongst 
the
old cement, as you will need them for the new installation.  They are near the
rear frame bolts.


Good luck, and wait for a warm day.

Steve





--
Steve Laifman         < Find out what is most     >
B9472289              < important in your life    >
                      < and don't let it get away!>

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