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RE: Attaching Roll Bars

To: "Jay Laifman" <Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>, Theo Smit <TSMIT@isotel.com>
Subject: RE: Attaching Roll Bars
From: Doug Mallory <rdmallory@earthling.net>
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:46:22 -0500
What I did was cut the plate in two at a 45 degrees angle and fit it up 
into the channel
Then used a swivel socket to tighten the bolts.

Doug



At 10:24 AM 1/24/2000 -0800, Jay Laifman wrote:



> >On my Tiger I welded in a plate into the front corners of the parcel
>shelf.
>
> >Without the backup plates the bolts will pull through the sheetmetal when
>a
> >large load is applied. You have to decide whether it's going to be a 'roll
> >bar' or a 'show bar', and put in the appropriate mounting.
>
>I have been told by two people, Rick at Sunbeam Specialities, and AutoPower
>where the roll bar was made, that bolting is better than welding.  The
>reason given was that the sheet metal itself is very weak - in fact, weaker
>than the bolts and washers, and heating it in the welding process will make
>it even weaker.
>
>That being said, it does come with large thick backing plates.  I don't
>know if they total 20 square inches, but they might.  The plates easily fit
>on the rear two mounting spots.  Its the front ones that are close to
>impossible to do that without cutting a very large hole into that boxed
>section underneath.  I guess you could cut it open, get the plate in, then
>weld back the box.  But, that doesn't seem quite right either.
>
>Note that I didn't even realize this box was down there until I slid
>underneath to try to bolt it up.  I even thought I saw light coming through
>when I looked down into the holes.  That light must have been coming though
>the oblong holes along the box.
>
>Jay
>



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