Hey Steve,
Everyone is entitled to an opinion ..... even if it is wrong! Just
kidding. You are fairly accurate in your assessment of the characteristics
of topcoats. As far as California we sell paint everywhere and the closest
location for a branch to you is in Oxnard or Van Nuys or Paramount under the
corporate name of Akzo Nobel. Our product is not intended for
do-it-yourselfers though and you may have some difficulty getting it unless
you call ahead. PPG is a decent product and you certainly not do yourself a
disservice by using PPG. As for all of the reasons to use clear......I won't
plug up everyone's email but will just make a strong recommendation that you
do use clear for all of the reasons I didn't mention.
Best Regards All,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Laifman [mailto:Laifman@flash.net]
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2000 3:44 PM
To: Ronak, TP (Timothy)
Cc: Tiger's Den
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Paint code]
Tim,
Didn't mean to 'push a button'. That was a copy of an old
post, which
was really meant for the Tower Paint info.
PPG can be bought most anywhere, and the body shops have the
entire
"paint system" so they only need the basic ingredients. I am
not sure
where Sikkens is carried in California, or what body shops
are outfitted
for the system. You'll have to let us know, so we can use
the superior
product. I trust your judgement.
What I meant about repair was, as I am told by the painters,
repairing
physical damage to paint that has had a clear coat requires
a lot more
work, as the clear must be removed down to the color layer
before
repairs can be blended in. If the color is the top coat,
then they are
working on the color finish directly. This includes
polishing out
scratches to the color depth, as well.
The second issue, as I was told, is that the metallic paints
(using
aluminum particles for the glitter) have the tendency to
'float' the
aluminum particles to the surface, due to density and
surface tension.
That allows them to oxidize more quickly. With a clear coat,
applied
after the aluminum is at the surface area of the color coat,
there is
some protection against atmospheric oxidation, and perhaps
UV
penetration. I am not sure that UV dulls aluminum, however,
put it can
fade paint. If you have a particularly susceptible color
(red), then
maybe a UV protective coat is in order.
Lastly, the base material in the vehicle for the pigment is
the same as
it is in the clear coat, polyurethane, and it surrounds all
pigment
particles without a clear coat. From an aesthetic
standpoint, on a solid
color vintage car, a layer of clear gives a modern 'wet'
look, is not
in character with the era, providing that is your goal.
Thus lays my logic on clear coating of solid colors. I did
add extra
clear in the pigment formula, which requires more spray
passes to hide,
to give depth to the color, however.
Please correct a layman's repetition of the painter's
version, and the
aesthetic rationale.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
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