Jim, what's wrong with shaking hands. I learned to just write bigger.
Of course, stuttering with the cop is not good.
Bottom line, do you think the GTech is a good adjustment tool for the
engine, suspension, and your driving style.
James Barrett wrote:
> Larry and all the others who have commented about HP etc.
> The GTeck-Pro that I have does in fact provide
> instantinious and peak HP (If you enter the weight
> of your car before you start.) It also reads ET and MPH
> in a 1/4 mile at another setting. The data is NOT
> recorded unfortunually. I find that when I am "Testing"
> my Tiger, It is difficult to operate the GTeck-Pro and
> to write down the results when the hands are shaking
> real bad.
> At 09:39 AM 2/22/2001 -0500, you wrote:
> >If I remember, Jim B has a GMeter, and was happy once he found a way to
> >secure the meter to the windshield. Jim, have you or others on the list
> >used this device to tune your car, or practice skills in launching your car.
> >It seams like a reasonable way to do both, after the whole package is
> >together, and fine tuning is in order.
> >I had my car dyno tuned, and believe it is one of the best performance
> >expenses, but the GMeter is real world, with you driving your car, and
> >as many practices as you or your tires can take.
> >Bob Palmer wrote:
> >> Stu,
> >> I too believe in confirming theory with experiment. Actually, if you think
> >> about it, a chassis dyno does about the same thing you are suggesting. Some
> >> work different than others, but a lot of them calculate horsepower by
> >> accelerating the rotating mass with the rear wheels. Pretty equivalent to
> >> accelerating the mass of the car. If you do the G-meter tests, we can
> >> calculate the horsepower curve. We do need to know the speed of the car and
> >> it's mass. BTW, one of the guys that runs a dyno here in San Diego thinks
> >> torque is "real" and horsepower is just "theoretical", because you have to
> >> multiply torque times rpm to get horsepower. But just minute here; torque
> >> force times distance, so I guess it's all just a mirage!! Maybe I'll start
> >> new fad by talking about the down "force" of the pistons as being what
> >> "really counts", or come to think of it maybe it's really the compression
> >> pressure in the cylinder times the piston area that produces the down
> >> that creates the torque that produces the power that's really important.
> >> It's all so very confusing!!! Maybe Chris Vaught's Zen approach to drag
> >> racing is more satisfying. Of course, he may be at a bit of a disadvantage
> >> in a car he has never practiced his meditations in. You probably wouldn't
> >> last long as a NASCAR or CART driver with that attitude either. I'm pretty
> >> sure with a $100k motor, they don't want you using the seat of your pants
> >> decide when to shift - just guessing, but if it was MY race car I'd want
> >> details like that nailed down pretty tight.
> >> When the green flag drops, the b.s. stops
> >> TTFN,
> >> Bob
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]On
> >> Behalf Of Stuart Brennan
> >> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 9:33 AM
> >> To: email@example.com
> >> Subject: When to shift?
> >> Torque curves? Horespower curves? Red line? Hmmmm....
> >> If you really think about it, you should shift either when the engine is
> >> about ready to explode, OR when the next gear up would give you more
> >> accelleration, as in when an engine runs out of breath at high revs. I
> >> would say that you should use a "G-Analyist" or whatever that thing was
> >> called, to plot your accelleration vs speed for each gear, idle to red
> >> Overlay these plots, and it should become obvious where to shift. This way
> >> you would not have to compensate for any other factors. You are directly
> >> measuring the result that you want.
> >> Stu
> James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others