Derek White inquires about light weight flywheels for his Tiger. I
thought the information gathered might benefit others seeking this information.
Derek,
I have the Performance Automotive Warehouse and the Summit Catalogs, all
of which list light weight flywheels. It should be pointed out, however,
that the weight of the vehicle has nothing to do with the reaction of
the engine to free revving or poor idling, which is strictly a function
of the inertia of the engine components.
Only the small effect on vehicle acceleration would be affected by the
vehicle weight.
I should point out that there IS an entirely different class of flywheel
that is high performance for high power fast revving engines. These are
not lighter in weight, but much stronger, so they do not fly apart under
extreme loads, or high heat, caused by large amounts of torque and high rpm.
Ford Motorsport, for example, lists 1 flywheel with the stock 28 oz
unbalance of the early Fords (Pre-'81 157 tooth) meeting SF1.1 out of
Billet Steel for USD $221 in 1999. Cast iron (150 oz/157 tooth) is USD
$120, Billet Steel same price os 28 oz, Nodular iron 164 tooth 50 0z at
$220. Nodular iron 164/ 0 oz weight - for internally balanced engines
are $145, and billet steel $236, but these are for the 4.6 L Cobra
Mustang. There are NO light weights listed. I would assume, for a 302,
you will need to know whether it was pre/post 1981 for the correct
counterbalance weight.
They are quoted as saying:
"The flywheel is the foundation of the clutch system and, because it is
an energy storage device, also determines the amount of power available
when you launch the car. A heavy flywheel stores MORE energy as it spins
than a light flywheel. If your engine and gearing combination requires
more power or inertia to make the car launch without bogging the motor,
you want a heavier flywheel. Keep in mind, though, that a heavier
flywheel will be slower to accelerate through the gears. A lighter
flywheel creates less inertia at launch, but will accelerate quicker
through the gears. In order to effectively use a lighter flywheel, you
must consider the car weight, operating RPM of the engine, and most
importantly, the gearing. Too little gear will causes the engine to
"nose over" or "bog" on launch."
This being said, they divide their line into billet steel flywheels of
approximately 33 lb.. at $220 for the house line, and the billet
ALUMINUM flywheels, with 1/4 inch steel friction faces, at 18 lb.. and
$300-$400 for the house brand.
Mcleod makes and extensive line of flywheels in steel and aluminum (with
steel ($340) or bronze ($390) heat shields ), all with different clutch
diameters available, different balance weights, and different starter
teeth. I do not know which engine you are using, or how you have
balanced it, so details are not important. They have models in steel
from 25 lb.., 30 lb.., and 40 lb.., and all aluminum flywheels have
tab-welded ring gears. No weight is listed for the aluminum, so a direct
contact with your desires for counterbalance, ring gear teeth, and
clutch type known is required. This is probably the top of the line
manufacturer.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
<SLaifman@SoCal.RR.com>
<http://www.TigersUnited.com/gallery/SteveLaifman.asp>
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