I'd like to offer a few tips on attaching the glovebox to the dash. Since
the box conceals the wiper motor & cable, you might want to consider how you
might drop the glovebox to get at them if you need to. It's easy to make this
little modification when the dash is out---and almost impossible when the dash
is installed. A few minutes work w/the heavy cardboard glovebox before you
screw it to the rear of the dash is all it takes. And with Lucas electrics, the
wiper motor/cable is almost certain to need attention.
I took a fresh exacto blade & cut a slot to the holes in the cardboard
materiel, cutting the slots in a 90 degree angle to the floor so I could just
loosen the screws & drop the box down w/out the hassle of fully removing the
screws and then struggling to reattach the top screws, which are concealed &
blind. You don't even have to do anything to the easy to reach & see bottom
screws. I also brushed a little carpenters glue on the slots & let it dry so's
the slots would be stiffened & not fuzzy cardboard in consistency. I put small
flat washers on the stock screw fasteners to increase the clamping
force--that's all there is to it.
Al Johnson
Randall Antosiak wrote:
> Hi Gunny - I just replaced my dash last summer using the same Prestige dash
> with door - very nice! Here is the approach I used - it worked well.
>
> 1) attach glove box - Assuming that you got a new glove box from Sunbeam
> Specialities, it really does fit but sure doesn't seem like it when you
> first try it. Attach it using the screws from your current dash, and give
> yourself lots of time. After each screw was attached, I had to refit it.
> Also, the glove box is made for the doorless dash, so you will have to
> attach additional material to the box where it has a gap for the dash
> handle. This is the hardest part for sure.
>
> 2) move one gauge at a time. Detach the mounting screws for the old dash
> and carefully let it drop. Try to keep most wires attached - some will be
> too tight, so these will have to be detached and labelled. Then, move one
> gauge from the old dash to the new dash. This is an easy way to keep the
> wires sorted out.
>
> 3) When all gauges are moved, make sure that your ground wires are correct.
> They snake all over. They attach to the car ground at a dash mounting point
> near the ignition.
>
> 4) Careful of the ignition wires. If these become detached from the
> ignition switch, it is difficult to figure out their original location.
>
> Cheers, Randall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of RGGAMMA@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 11:31 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: New gauges
>
> OK fellas, here it goes......
>
> Just received my new dash with glovebox door from Prestige. Boy what a
> fantastic job they do. Anyway, before I start removing my old dash and
> instruments; are there ANY problem areas I should be aware of. I am
> replacing all of my gauges with AutoMeter units that look so close to stock
> they are scary. All mechanical gauges except for Volts, Tach, Speedo and
> Boost :-). I started this exercise because my Richmond Street 5 speed does
> not have the clearance for any sort of cable drive to my stock speedo and
> the
> stock tach does not want to function well with the Davis Unified Ignition
> system the PO had installed (GM HEI ).
>
> Cheers
> Gunny
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