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Re: Fulcrim pin bushing disaster!

To: "Tom Witt" <wittsend@jps.net>
Subject: Re: Fulcrim pin bushing disaster!
From: Tom Hall <modtiger@comcast.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 17:24:09 -0700
At 11:45 AM 8/12/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>How stupid can I be???
>Murphy's law 1A. If you don't check it you did it wrong.
>Murphy's law 1B. If you do check it you likely got it right, but somehow
>percieve it wrong and change it incorrectly.
>Murphy's law 1C. If you did it wrong you check it, but don't notice the error
>and foolishly proceed.
>  Well, some way, some how (and I have to tell you I triple checked this
>because I knew how important it is) I have pressed on my lower fulcrim pin
>backwards!!! I did this months ago, but NOW that I am assembling it has come
>to my attention. The greater difficulty seems to be pressing the Nolothane SS
>(black) bushing out. The rubber-ish insert just collapes and inhibits the
>removal. Any ideas to getting it out? I know it will be destroyed one way or
>another, so I sure hope SS sells them as single units because I sure don't
>want to spend a $100 for one!
>Forget Captitol punishment, just give convicted murderers a Tiger to restore!
>Thanks if you have any ideas, Tom Witt

         Running the OEM pins in the reverse direction will give you about 
3 degrees of positive caster above the original design.  It's entirely 
possible that you may be able to use the setup as-is and adjust the caster 
to your specification with upper A-arm shims.  If not, you can add shims 
between the frame and the front connection bolts, or machine or remove the 
aluminum wedges.  Most owners would like to get a "free" 3 degree caster 
advantage.  It should also give you a minor improvement on the Ackerman 
angles, but that's essentially a negligible gain.


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