As a test, run a heavy gage wire with switch direct from battery to coil.
Does this eliminate your blip?
>>> Steve Sage <ssage@socal.rr.com> 5/27/2004 8:35:12 PM >>>
Here I am, messing about with my Pertronix Ignitor II ignigtion and
Flamethrower II coil again. In the past, and occassionally again now,
the Tiger acts like I just briefly "blipped" the ignition switch off,
then back on. RPMs drop almost to off, then bump up again. This can
happen at full speed and/or at idle.On other occassions, tending to
happen in hot to very hot weather when the car (and the wiring) is very
hot, the car sometimes stalls from idle, and has been known to
completely stall when bopping down the highway. Again, the failure mode
has usually come in hot weather.
I spoke to Pertronix again today and got a knowledgeable (I think)
support tech. He thinks my voltage is too low at the coil. With the car
running, I get 13+ volts at the coil output terminal (that leads to the
ignition module inside the distributor cap). With the engine off but the
ignition switch on, following the tech's instructions, I ran a ground
wire from the negative coil terminal to a ground on the motor. In this
mode I get a bit over 7 volts at the positive coil terminal. The
Pertronix tech says this is too low, and that in this mode (engine off,
ignition on) I should be getting at least 9 volts, and ideally I should
be getting a full 12 volts. He said what's probably happening is that
when the car and the wiring heats up, there's even more resistance, and
less voltage gets to the module. He said that when voltage goes below
what it needs, it would behave just like I'm describing. He says I've
got resistance somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil,
preventing the needed juice from getting to the coil.
So, how do I solve the problem and get at least 9, and hopefully up to
12 volts at the coil, with the engine off?
Steve Sage
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