The Rootes parts List show 2 part numbers for the pushrod; that
indicates that there is a difference and very possibly it is the length of
the pushrod. I have never compared these parts so I don't know the
differences. A longer pushrod should fix the problem.
SS only list one pushrod. You would need to contact them to find
out if it is a universal part that can fix MK I and MK II.
From: email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
On Behalf Of Smit, Theo
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2010 10:22 AM
To: Would U. Believe; email@example.com
Subject: Re: [Tigers] New Clutch Adjustment (Help/Advice Needed)
If you had 3/4 inch of play between the pushrod end and the release lever
when the slave cylinder's piston is pushed all the way into its bore, then
you should get a longer pushrod. For the purpose of testing, you can easily
make one from a 3/8" or larger diameter bolt - just cut it to length and
grind the ends roughly spherical. The hydraulic setup will self-adjust
within a reasonably large limit so you don't need to have the length of the
rod exactly right, but if the rod is way too short then you run the risk of
popping the piston out of the slave cylinder bore when you press the pedal
to the floor. You have bled the master cylinder at the pipe connection,
If the clutch release lever is getting full travel and the transmission
still doesn't shift properly, then there is something wrong with the way
that the clutch assembly is put together. The clutch disc could be bent, the
disc might be incompatible with the diaphragm clutch (too thick or too much
squish) or something strange with the release bearing.
Engine removal and replacement goes much faster the second time. ;)
> HOWEVER, The gears will not go in with the engine running. I can only
> get it into gear with the engine off. With the engine running, the
> gears clash.
> This, to me, indicates that the clutch is not releasing completely.
> Considering it's a brand new clutch and the pedal feels good, I think
> issue is that the slave cylinder pushrod is not actuating the clutch
> far enough to disengage. Keep in mind that the slave is the same one
> on the 260 on a new bracket, and the bell housing and clutch fork
> are the correct ones from the Mk2 Tiger -- but they have not been
> in any way. I have not had time to get under the car again to check
> but I initially noticed about 3/4 inches of play between the large end
> the pushrod and the lever itself, which seemed to be excessive to me.
> the question I have (finally!) is, are there any adjustments that I can
> should make? If the 260 pushrod should be too short, is there another
> pushrod that would work (and where would I buy that?)?
This e-mail and any attachments may contain confidential material for the
sole use of the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient,
please be aware that any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this
e-mail or any attachment is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in
error, please contact the sender and delete all copies.
Thank you for your cooperation.
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.441 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3036 - Release Date: 07/29/10