Hmmm, is this a purist type of run in or the American version? I ask
because the Sunbeam Owner's handbook does it differently. The handbook
says to run the car up and down to speeds of around 60 mph as it is
being driven for the first 500 miles. Don't lug the engine and don't
over rev it in neutral. When 500 miles are attained, have the dealer
change the oil. That's pretty much it.
Since the zinc and phosphorus have been generally removed from the
current motor oils, I would certainly put in some ZDDP for break in.
and then after every oil change as well.
mayf
______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed
On 11/19/2011 1:05 PM, Ron Fraser wrote:
> Tim
> First you want to prime the carb and check for any fuel leaks;
> electric fuel pumps make this easy.
>
> According to Tom Monroe's book on Rebuilding a Small Block Ford;
>
> Start the engine and bring the RPM up to between 2000 and 2500 for 30 min
> Check to make sure you have oil pressure, at least 30 psi within 15 seconds
> Watch RPM to make sure it stays between 2000 and 2500
> Check for any fluid leaks
> I would also watch the coolant temperature to make sure it stays constant
> once it gets up to temperature.
> Shut engine off after 30 min
> Check all fluid levels
> Setup your timing light, start engine, bring idle down to normal, set
> initial timing.
>
> Test drive
>
> Go for a test drive, vary your speed but don't accelerate hard
> Check to make sure everything is working
> Listen for any problems, be alert for anything
> Return to your garage
> Check for fluid leaks; fix any leaks
> Check all fluid levels
> Look for anything that could become a problem
> Some recommend checking bolt torque after cool down; intake manifold and
> exhaust manifolds
>
> I would repeat all fluid checks before and after any drive just to
> be sure everything is OK
>
> I think I ran the break in oil for about 500 miles before changing.
>
> I've never had a problem with air pockets, run the engine, open the
> heater valve, keep an eye on the level in the header tank. You could
> remove one of the heater core hoses and pour some coolant into the heater
> core first if you choice.
>
> I've never run Synthetic oil in my Tiger but they are making better
> synthetic oils every year and some day there maybe no other choice. I
> would not use it for break in and I don't think I would even consider it
> until after 5000 miles.
>
> Enjoy the ride.
>
> Ron Fraser
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Tim Webster
> Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 11:57 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Engine run in
>
>
> Hi to all,
>
>
>
> There is a bewildering array of conflicting information on the www regarding
> the engine run in process. I have my newly rebuilt 260 nearly ready to fire
> and am looking to the list for what is the best way to accomplish this job
> in a way that will ensure a long and happy life for the engine (and by
> extension, me).
>
>
>
> The engine is .030 over and apart from that was restored to stock specs.
> Questions might include;
>
>
>
> -type of oil to use
>
> -length of time before oil changes
>
> -best rpm loading and duration of run in periods before allowing engine to
> cool
>
> -best way to ensure the engine will be free of air pockets (taking into
> account the presence of the heater core
>
> -best type of coolant to use
>
> -thoughts on the use of synthetic oil during run in and/or after run in
>
>
>
> It was gratifying this week to turn the key and hear her turn over without
> having to grab a fire extinguisher, if you know what I mean...
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Tim
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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>
>
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> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
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