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Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs

To: <drmayf@mayfco.com>, "'Jay Laifman'" <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
From: " Ron Fraser" <rfraser@bluefrog.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:32:39 -0400
Cc: 'Tiger's Den' <tigers@autox.team.net>
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Thread-index: Ac0dsWCOFNaJCbr1SE+39TfIIWTKAQAEYfuw engine=2.50.10432:5.6.7580,1.0.260,0.0.0000 definitions=2012-04-18_09:2012-04-18,2012-04-18,1970-01-01 signatures=0 spamscore=0 ipscore=0 suspectscore=2 phishscore=0 bulkscore=0 adultscore=0 classifier=spam adjust=0 reason=mlx scancount=1 engine=6.0.2-1203120001 definitions=main-1204180318
Spark plug torque

Tapered plug - snug + 1/8 turn
Washer style - snug + 1/4 turn

This seems to be the norm for spark plugs.

Tiger Shop Manual - Section B - Page 70 - torque = 15 - 20 ft lbs

Ron Fraser

-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Mayfield
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:18 PM
To: Jay Laifman
Cc: Tiger's Den
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs


Intersting...but, I am throwing the BS flag on this one.   When the plug 
was fires, in this case,  and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal 
case, it is done. The case with its tapered seat grounds the spark to 
the head and no further  current flows.   The engineer mentions that the 
spark runs down the case to the inside of the spark where the center 
electrode is housed in ceramic and sparks inside there.  I don't think 
so.  Again, in a normally firing plug, the current flows down the center 
of the plug, jumps the gap and grounds itself on the side of the plug 
case. That side is grounded both by the threads and the plug seat.  As 
to the anti seize, yeah too much is a bad thing. But it must also be 
noted that the common variety anti sieze compounds use some sort of 
metallic powder in them. I have two different kinds, one with small 
copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy for higher heat 
applications.  The metals in the anti seize are conductive in 
themselves  so having them between the threads and head material is a 
non issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you 
should avoid that.  Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a 
no no as well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have 
a db on the ceramic  the spark energy will take the easiest path to 
ground and that isn't through the center electrode.  Anybody remember 
what the plug torque is for their spark plugs in their Tigers?  I don't 
see it in the repair manual. I didn't get a torque spec with the 
aluminum heads for the race car either.   Most say something  like hand 
tight plus a bit  extra  with the wrench.  As to putting the dielectric 
grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It makes those suckers really easy to 
get all the way on. And that makes good electrical contact with the 
center electrode.  It doesn't seem to help me get the boot off though.

Just use a dab of ante seize.  like a bit on a q tip.   Or use milk of 
magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive.

happy sparking

mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed


On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay Laifman wrote:
> Every car guy should watch this!
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>
> Jay
> _______________________________________________
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