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Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs

To: drmayf@mayfco.com, Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
From: Sandy Ganz <sganz@pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 17:03:30 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
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Yes, same page you just said it better ;)

And again, likely started with a
cracked spark plug not antiseize... maybe he 
'over torqued' the plug and
stretched the threads...

Ok, still useful to keep things clean if that's the
message, it's what I'll take 
away, and I still enjoy seeing these type of
videos, always learning what to/not 
to do from others costly mistakes is nice
for a change.

How's the Tiger project coming along?

Sandy ;)
________________________________
From: Larry Mayfield <drmayf@mayfco.com>
To:
Jay Laifman <jay.laifman@gmail.com>
Cc: Tiger's Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, April 18, 2012 3:19:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Anti-Seize on Spark
Plugs

Intersting...but, I am throwing the BS flag on this one.  When the plug
was fires, in this case,  and the spark arcs under the boot to the metal
case, it is done. The case with its tapered seat grounds the spark to 
the
head and no further  current flows.  The engineer mentions that the 
spark
runs down the case to the inside of the spark where the center 
electrode is
housed in ceramic and sparks inside there.  I don't think 
so.  Again, in a
normally firing plug, the current flows down the center 
of the plug, jumps
the gap and grounds itself on the side of the plug 
case. That side is
grounded both by the threads and the plug seat.  As 
to the anti seize, yeah
too much is a bad thing. But it must also be 
noted that the common variety
anti sieze compounds use some sort of 
metallic powder in them. I have two
different kinds, one with small 
copper microballs and one with a nickel alloy
for higher heat 
applications.  The metals in the anti seize are conductive in
themselves  so having them between the threads and head material is a 
non
issue. getting the goo on the electrode is a problem though and you 
should
avoid that.  Also, getting it on the exterior plug ceramic is a 
no no as
well. Why? well because it IS conductive stuff. so if you have 
a db on the
ceramic  the spark energy will take the easiest path to 
ground and that isn't
through the center electrode.  Anybody remember 
what the plug torque is for
their spark plugs in their Tigers?  I don't 
see it in the repair manual. I
didn't get a torque spec with the 
aluminum heads for the race car either. 
Most say something  like hand 
tight plus a bit  extra  with the wrench.  As
to putting the dielectric 
grease inside the boot. Oh yes! It makes those
suckers really easy to 
get all the way on. And that makes good electrical
contact with the 
center electrode.  It doesn't seem to help me get the boot
off though.

Just use a dab of ante seize.  like a bit on a q tip.  Or use
milk of 
magnesia, works just as well and is non conductive.

happy sparking
mayf

______________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit speed


On 4/18/2012 12:51 PM, Jay
Laifman wrote:
> Every car guy should watch this!
>
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zw7d8B8ETw&feature=player_embedded
>
> Jay
>
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>
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