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Well, not much good today. First off, I tried the MGB unit from VB. As
mentioned it was and is different in mounting and connections. I did not
play with it long however and plan to do more. I next set up Theo and Tom's
electronic unit. First failure was a broken anti rotation tab on the 6061-T6
bracket. I wil remake one tomorrow from softer aluminum. But I grounded the
unit and put the G Ign and LGG wires onto the posts. Because I had broken
one tab, I covered the post which will come into chassis contact if rotated,
with shrink tubing. Put more gasoline in car. Use a stick with magic marker
tattle stripe and stuck it into the tank: looks like I have maybe a 3rd of a
tank now. Definitely enough to cause the needle to move if it wants to. I
had just finished reinstalling the entire heater water plumbing also
including the cast iron and copper T pieces. I installed a new Temp sensor
from Rick at SS. I used the OEM sender wire and ground wire at the cast iron
T. Gage wiring was per CAT diagrams and one of the list members wiring on
his car: LGG to the left side of the Temp meter and right side on the Fuel
meter. Satisfied I was not gonna fry anything I tried starting the car.
Start and immediately die. OOPS, I know what this is: the White blue wire on
the ballast came off. Yup. And it had apparently touched ground somewhere as
well as the 35 amp fuse for that was blown. New fuse wire back where it
goes. Car starts albeit a tad flooded. After some fiddling, car idled
nicely. This after sitting for 7 years. I let the thing sit there and idle
to get the temp up. Meter never moved at all. Ditto fuel Temp was below 120
on meter, fuel is something around 1.001 gallons and hanging there. It never
moves. Just for chuckles I removed the fuel gage meter and sender from the
circuitry and zappo, tempo gage goes full scale. I repeat this with the fuel
gage meter and temp out of the loop and fuel gage does not move. Tomorrow
I am going to find a couple of compatible potentiometers and use them as
senders in each circuit. That way I can see it eh meters themselves are
toasted or ok. I have somewhere in my pile of testing and experimenting
residue, I am sure to have two pots similar to what the senders are. I will
try and find a couple that are 1K max and near zero at the low end. That
kinda mimics the senders. That way, I can mix and match the wiring on the
meters easily and adjust to the pots to mimic the actual senders.
Anybody see anything wrong here?
If not, more info tomorrow at COB or thereabouts
mayf
_________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit (not top) speed
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</v:background></xml><![endif]--><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Well, not much good today. First off, I tried =
the MGB unit from VB. As mentioned it was and is different in mounting =
and connections. I did not play with it long however and plan to =
do more. I next set up Theo and Tom’s electronic unit. First =
failure was a broken anti rotation tab on the 6061-T6 bracket. I =
wil remake one tomorrow from softer aluminum. But I grounded the unit =
and put the G Ign and LGG wires onto the posts. Because I =
had broken one tab, I covered the post which will come into chassis =
contact if rotated, with shrink tubing. Put more gasoline in car. Use a =
stick with magic marker tattle stripe and stuck it into the tank: looks =
like I have maybe a 3<sup>rd</sup> of a tank now. Definitely enough to =
cause the needle to move if it wants to. I had just finished =
reinstalling the entire heater water plumbing also including the cast =
iron and copper T pieces. I installed a new Temp sensor from Rick at SS. =
I used the OEM sender wire and ground wire at the cast iron T. =
Gage wiring was per CAT diagrams and one of the list members =
wiring on his car: LGG to the left side of the Temp meter and right side =
on the Fuel meter. Satisfied I was not gonna fry anything I tried =
starting the car. Start and immediately die. OOPS, I know what this is: =
the White blue wire on the ballast came off. Yup. And it had apparently =
touched ground somewhere as well as the 35 amp fuse for that was blown. =
New fuse wire back where it goes. Car starts albeit a tad flooded. After =
some fiddling, car idled nicely. This after sitting for 7 years. I =
let the thing sit there and idle to get the temp up. Meter never moved =
at all. Ditto fuel Temp was below 120 on meter, fuel is something around =
1.001 gallons and hanging there. It never moves. Just for chuckles =
I removed the fuel gage meter and sender from the circuitry and zappo, =
tempo gage goes full scale. I repeat this with the fuel gage meter and =
temp out of the loop and fuel gage does not move. Tomorrow I =
am going to find a couple of compatible potentiometers and use them as =
senders in each circuit. That way I can see it eh meters =
themselves are toasted or ok. I have somewhere in my pile of =
testing and experimenting residue, I am sure to have two pots similar to =
what the senders are. I will try and find a couple that are 1K max =
and near zero at the low end. That kinda mimics the senders. =
That way, I can mix and match the wiring on the meters =
easily and adjust to the pots to mimic the actual senders. =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Anybody see anything wrong here? <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>If not, more =
info tomorrow at COB or thereabouts<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>mayf<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>_____________=
____________<br>drmayf<br>Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.<br>204.913 mph =
flying mile<br>210.779 mph exit (not top) =
speed<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>
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