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Re: [Tigers] Rear Main Seal Question

To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Main Seal Question
From: Tom Hall via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2019 07:53:46 -0800
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <CAKb_wf=pyM2f6b5EqFnETOMevgArEkofQy-EF+duqFb1HMEPaA@mail.gmail.com>
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On 1/22/2019 2:55 PM, Joe Brown via Tigers wrote:
> Here is a question for you guys that are old hands at rebuilding 
> engines.  I am putting my original 260 back together after it came 
> back from the machine shop and I am struggling a little bit with the 
> two-piece rear main seal that came with my FelPro gasket set.  The 
> instructions say to insert one half of the seal into the block with 
> about 3/8" sticking up on one side. This should result in the other 
> side being about 3/8" below the edge of the block.  The other half 
> goes into the rear main cap with the same offset so that it mates up 
> with the half that is in the block.
>
> My problem is that the two halves of the seal seem to be too long.  If 
> I insert one half so that 3/8" is sticking up on side it is only about 
> .2" down on the other side.  So I can't get the rear main cap to seat 
> correctly.  Is it common to have to trim the two halves so that they 
> will mate correctly?  Or should I just go buy another seal and hope it 
> works better?  (Thankfully I live just a few miles from a Summit 
> Racing warehouse)
>
> Thanks,
> Joe Brown
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
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>
Joe,

If your 260 still had a "rope" style rear seal, you should find a small 
sharp pin pressed into the seal groove.  This pin held the "rope" so 
that it couldn't turn in it's groove.  It would also keep your new 
rubber "lip" seal from seating down into the groove, resulting in the 
seal appearing to be too long.  If I remember correctly, this pin is in 
the main cap and should be just visable in the groove for the pan 
gasket.  You drive it out with a small diameter drift punch.

Your best solution would have been to have the machine shop bore the 
block and rear cap for a later one piece seal, but I think you are too 
far down the road to do this now.

-- 
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
5712 San Luis Court
Pleasanton, CA 94566
modtiger@comcast.net
(925)462-3876
www.tigerengineering.net


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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/22/2019 2:55 PM, Joe Brown via
      Tigers wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAKb_wf=pyM2f6b5EqFnETOMevgArEkofQy-EF+duqFb1HMEPaA@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Here is a question for you guys that are old hands
        at rebuilding engines.  I am putting my original 260 back
        together after it came back from the machine shop and I am
        struggling a little bit with the two-piece rear main seal that
        came with my FelPro gasket set.  The instructions say to insert
        one half of the seal into the block with about 3/8" sticking up
        on one side. This should result in the other side being about
        3/8" below the edge of the block.  The other half goes into the
        rear main cap with the same offset so that it mates up with the
        half that is in the block.
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div style="text-align:right">My problem is that the two halves
          of the seal seem to be too long.  If I insert one half so that
          3/8" is sticking up on side it is only about .2" down on the
          other side.  So I can't get the rear main cap to seat
          correctly.  Is it common to have to trim the two halves so
          that they will mate correctly?  Or should I just go buy
          another seal and hope it works better?  (Thankfully I live
          just a few miles from a Summit Racing warehouse)</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Thanks,</div>
        <div>Joe Brown</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" 
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</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <p>Joe, <br>
    </p>
    <p>If your 260 still had a "rope" style rear seal, you should find a
      small sharp pin pressed into the seal groove.  This pin held the
      "rope" so that it couldn't turn in it's groove.  It would also
      keep your new rubber "lip" seal from seating down into the groove,
      resulting in the seal appearing to be too long.  If I remember
      correctly, this pin is in the main cap and should be just visable
      in the groove for the pan gasket.  You drive it out with a small
      diameter drift punch.  <br>
    </p>
    <p>Your best solution would have been to have the machine shop bore
      the block and rear cap for a later one piece seal, but I think you
      are too far down the road to do this now.<br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Tom Hall
ModTiger Engineering LLC
5712 San Luis Court
Pleasanton, CA 94566
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="mailto:modtiger@comcast.net";>modtiger@comcast.net</a>
(925)462-3876
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="http://www.tigerengineering.net";>www.tigerengineering.net</a> </pre>
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