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It was 1976 when I rebuilt a 260..., but I vaguely recall the rope seal had=
a spiked pin in the channel to hold the rope seal. If my recollection is =
correct (suspect, so don=E2=80=99t count on it) is it possible that is keep=
ing the new seal (assumed rubber) from properly seating??? Do both halves d=
isplay the same offset, or is it only one. You didn=E2=80=99t say whether y=
our kit had a rope or rubber seal. I took a look at Rock Auto and they offe=
r a number of seal in both types. So, I assume kits may still come with eit=
her type.
Many of these companies have a tech hotline and email responses. That might=
be the proper route over say..., some guys 41 year old vague memory.
From: Ron Fraser via Tigers
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2019 8:09 PM
To: 'Joe Brown' ; tigers@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Rear Main Seal Question
Joe
I=E2=80=99m not the expert here but I believe that is corre=
ct.
I believe you need some compressive force on that seal to obtain a proper s=
eal to the crank.
If you have an engine builder in the area talk to him.
My edition of How to build a Small Block Ford states 13 ft lbs of torque to=
turn the crankshaft with all the crank bearings installed.
I don=E2=80=99t see a specific spec for this torque listed anywhere so that=
is probably just a guide line.
Seems to me some years ago I saw mentioned that Egge had a better seal for =
the small block Ford but I don=E2=80=99t remember following up on that info=
rmation.
Ron Fraser
From: Tigers <tigers-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Joe Brown via Tig=
ers
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2019 5:56 PM
To: Tigers Den <Tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Rear Main Seal Question
Here is a question for you guys that are old hands at rebuilding engines. =
I am putting my original 260 back together after it came back from the mach=
ine shop and I am struggling a little bit with the two-piece rear main seal=
that came with my FelPro gasket set. The instructions say to insert one h=
alf of the seal into the block with about 3/8" sticking up on one side. Thi=
s should result in the other side being about 3/8" below the edge of the bl=
ock. The other half goes into the rear main cap with the same offset so th=
at it mates up with the half that is in the block.
My problem is that the two halves of the seal seem to be too long. If I in=
sert one half so that 3/8" is sticking up on side it is only about .2" down=
on the other side. So I can't get the rear main cap to seat correctly. I=
s it common to have to trim the two halves so that they will mate correctly=
? Or should I just go buy another seal and hope it works better? (Thankfu=
lly I live just a few miles from a Summit Racing warehouse)
Thanks,
Joe Brown
---
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<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>It was 1976 when I rebuilt a 260..., but I vaguely recall the rope sea=
l had
a spiked pin in the channel to hold the rope seal. If my recollection=
is
correct (suspect, so don=E2=80=99t count on it) is it possible that is keep=
ing the new
seal (assumed rubber) from properly seating??? Do both halves display the s=
ame
offset, or is it only one. You didn=E2=80=99t say whether your kit had a ro=
pe or rubber
seal. I took a look at Rock Auto and they offer a number of seal in both ty=
pes.
So, I assume kits may still come with either type.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Many of these companies have a tech hotline and email responses. That =
might
be the proper route over say..., some guys 41 year old vague memory.</DIV>
<DIV
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; F=
ONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=3Dtigers@autox.team.=
net
href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net";>Ron Fraser via Tigers</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 22, 2019 8:09 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Djbbrown1980@gmail.com
href=3D"mailto:jbbrown1980@gmail.com";>'Joe Brown'</A> ; <A
title=3Dtigers@Autox.Team.Net
href=3D"mailto:tigers@Autox.Team.Net";>tigers@Autox.Team.Net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Tigers] Rear Main Seal Question</DIV></DIV></DIV>=
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; F=
ONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV class=3DWordSection1>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Joe<o:p></o:p></P>
<P
class=3DMsoNormal> &nb=
sp;
I=E2=80=99m not the expert here but I believe that is correct.<o:p></o:p></=
P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>I believe you need some compressive force on that seal=
to
obtain a proper seal to the crank.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>If you have an engine builder in the area talk to
him.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>My edition of How to build a Small Block Ford states 1=
3 ft
lbs of torque to turn the crankshaft with all the crank bearings
installed.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>I don=E2=80=99t see a specific spec for this torque li=
sted anywhere
so that is probably just a guide line.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Seems to me some years ago I saw mentioned that Egge h=
ad a
better seal for the small block Ford but I don=E2=80=99t remember following=
up on that
information.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Ron Fraser<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><B>From:</B> Tigers <tigers-bounces@autox.team.net&=
gt;
<B>On Behalf Of </B>Joe Brown via Tigers<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 2=
2,
2019 5:56 PM<BR><B>To:</B> Tigers Den
<Tigers@autox.team.net><BR><B>Subject:</B> [Tigers] Rear Main Seal
Question<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Here is a question for you guys that are old hands at =
rebuilding engines. I am putting my original 260 back together after =
it
came back from the machine shop and I am struggling a little bit with the
two-piece rear main seal that came with my FelPro gasket set. The
instructions say to insert one half of the seal into the block with about 3=
/8"
sticking up on one side. This should result in the other side being about 3=
/8"
below the edge of the block. The other half goes into the rear main c=
ap
with the same offset so that it mates up with the half that is in the
block.<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P></DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"TEXT-ALIGN: right" align=3Dright>My problem i=
s that the
two halves of the seal seem to be too long. If I insert one half so t=
hat
3/8" is sticking up on side it is only about .2" down on the other side.&nb=
sp;
So I can't get the rear main cap to seat correctly. Is it common to h=
ave
to trim the two halves so that they will mate correctly? Or should I =
just
go buy another seal and hope it works better? (Thankfully I live just=
a
few miles from a Summit Racing warehouse)<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Joe
Brown<o:p></o:p></P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8=
-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br />
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