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Re: GT6+ Diff From Kipping

To: LESNYD@ccmail.monsanto.com
Subject: Re: GT6+ Diff From Kipping
From: widget@pixi.com (Paul Swengler)
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 1995 08:26:46 -0500
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
>I have a quote from John Kipping for a 3.27:1 differential for my 1969
>GT6+. It reads:

The gear ratio is 3.27 turns on the pinion (drive) equals 1 turn of the 
wheels. I have no Idea if this is a standard ratio but your manual should 
detail this for you.

>   Supply without exchange

It's sold as is without a core.

>   No Rear Casing

Apparently you get the guts (gears) and get to put them in your own (old) 
casing. This may require a bench press of about 6 tons and some feeler 
guages and thrust washers to make them spec. Most machine shops could do 
this for you if you supply the washers and the specs. (shop manual)

>   New Seals & Bearings only for Quarter-shafts

this means he has bearings and seals for the wheel drives but not the 
pinion. You'd need to replace all the seals anyway. Note that many of the 
early triumph pinion seals were made of... (get this) leather. Now if you're 
a purist you can still get the originals. (you can ecven paint a green 
stripe on it :-)) They wear quickly, leak and cause friction/heat failure. I 
replace mine with current manufacture neopreme. I also replace the oil with 
synthetic.

>              #200.00 plus delivery
This may be high. If I was stuck to buy one I'd check T cars in hemmings for 
parting places. In any case it would be wise to rebuild any differential as 
it's relatively inexpensive (well under $50 for seals and thrust washers.) 


>What does this mean? Apparently it's not a complete diff. I have the dead
>one from my Wyoming adventure, so exactly what will I need, and what does
>this include?
>
>Thanks much.
>
>PS - I'm considering this because of the low-frequency grinding noise coming
>from the back of the car. I presume it's the diff. The U-joints SEEM OK, 
>although the left one is squeaking when cold...

But before I dropped $200 I'd check the oil level. If it's low I'd drain it 
and fill it, check for leaks over the course of 1000 miles or a month of 
intermittent driving, if no leaks and the noise persists I'd pull the broken 
one and dismantle it as you may only need a thrust washer or bearing. 
>
>Larry
>
>
Good luck, and let me know the results.
Aloha,

Paul Swengler
Not a purist but married to one.


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