Hello again,
-Most of Dan Parslow's good synopsis of front suspension
rework snipped.-
(I learned a new word too "rotable" I like it :-))
He continues-
>None of this is hard, it's just drudge. The bad part is removing
>the A-arms when one or more bolts are rusted into their sleeves.
>The lower rear bushes are the most susceptible because of their
>splash position. If this happens, the easiest way work it out
>is to take the whole mount point off the frame, put it on a bench
>and get busy with a hacksaw...
Yep, I've had to hacksaw (& BFH) a few. I've also been able
to push the bolts out with my fingers on a few lucky occasions.
I'm in the middle of this very job right now and would like to add:
Often you have to take (some of) the lower wishbone mount
points off the frame anyway. If the bolt head(s) is pointing
toward the suspension tower, it will not be possible to fully
extract it without taking loose the mount point. There's not
enough clearance. I had one bolt on each side of the car
oriented this way. It came from the factory like that.
Also if you are using the QH front suspension rebuild kit,
check the length of the bolts. They supply (2) 2-1/2" bolts
for the bottom and (2) 2-1/4" bolts for the top wishbone.
(each side) The longer bolts work fine in the bottom but,
the shorter bolts are not long enough to accomodate the
brake line bracket that the top rear bolt must also pass
through. There's not quite enough length for the nut to engage
the nylon locking part of the nut. You need (3) 2-1/2" bolts
per side.
Bob Sykes (s1500@aol.com) - - - __,@_\____
'78 Spitfires - -- }-0-----0->
(who is nutty enough to allow a trunnion replacement to turn into
a full blown front end / steering / suspension restoration)
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