SUCHAK wrote:
>
> Martin Libhart wrote:
> >
> > John:
> >
> > The following inserted comments are strictly mine - there are always a
> > number of ways to accomplish this part of the project.
> >
> > SUCHAK wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey gang....
> > >
> > > I'm going to be removing the body on my Spitfire and am wondering a few
> > > things before I do.
> > >
> > > First, just how heavy is this bugger? Assuming it's only an empty tub,
> > > doors and deck lid removed, no windshield or anything. Can two
> > > reasonably strong men lift and carry it?
> >
> > Yes, but three would be better. Ideally, one at the rear
> > and one in front of each door. Be SURE you're floors and
> > sills are structurally sound, and brace the door openings
> > before you lift, unless you want to risk folding the tub
> > in half! Personally, if sills/floors need replaced, I would
> > do while still on the frame, then remove the body.
>
> Not even a hint of rust in this tub. Do I still need to brace the door
> openings?
If it were me, I would. It's not that much trouble
to spot weld or attach a couple of lengths of angle
iron to accomplish this. Remember, even the slightest
sag will affect opening/closing of your doors in the end.
> >
> > > Speaking of rolling the frame out, will I be able
> > > to do that without the radius arm being mounted to the tub??
> >
> > You should be able to when carefully rolling the assembly.
> >
> > > I plan to rest the body on some tall stands while I sandblast and paint
> > > it. Any suggestions on jackstand placement? Obviously, I'd like to
> > > avoid bending or buckling any panels in this process.
> >
> > If I were using jack stands, I would span a 4X4 or 4X6 timber
> > across pairs, and attach to the top of the stands. This
> > will more evenly distribute the tub weight. You will also
> > need to have taller support at rear, if you want the tub to
> > be fairly level.
>
> I was hoping to have as much clearance as possible, hence my desire to
> use stands, located at the frame attachment points... No way I can do
> this without spanning it w/ timbers?
I'm sure you could - I'm just not sure of the weight
distribution. Remember, the body attaches at 12 points
on the frame, but you are only planning to provide 4
support points.
> > >
> > > Finally, a question of aesthetics.. I'm probably going to paint the car
> > > red again, and am wondering if I should paint it red inside, out and
> > > underneath, or would a contrasting color on the underside of the floors,
> > > wheel-wells and the firewall look cool, say black, or maybe even white?
> > > The frame will be black. (Or would it look weird?) Anybody ever see
> > > anything like what I'm talking about?
> >
> > Can't comment on this one... I'm a purist, and would
> > replicate the original car as much as possible. Frame
> > would be body color, floors would match body, etc. But,
> > each to his own, right??
>
> After thinking ot over I'm just going to go with the exterior color
> everywhere, as stock would've been. However, I'm confused.. Would the
> actual frame rails ahve been the body color as well?!?! I thought
> they'd be black, as mine will.
I've already viewed Andy's response to you on this part, and
I agree with his input. For my full resto, the entire frame
will be the body color.
Martin Libhart
1972 TR6 (driver)
1970 Spitfire (under the knife)
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