Carol wrote:
>Managed to get the piston out after repeated tapping with the hammer.
>The master cylider doesn't seem to be as agreeable. Any other options I
>should be cosidering ? I'd love to get Sybill finished this Sunday --
>and maybe finally drive her to a Jaguars game !
Carol:
It's been a while since I've done this on an OLD cylinder (one that wasn't
rebuilt in the last month!) so you may have more trouble with a piston
that's been in there a while. But, here's my procedure. Get a block of
wood and after visually noting the position of the piston inside the
cylinder, (how far in is it?) I just tap it right on the block of wood.
The open end of the cylinder faces down toward the wood. At first, you'll
just move it a little bit... you'll notice that with the wood in the way,
the piston can't emerge from the cylinder. BUT, it should move a little,
and once you've busted it loose, you can then tap it so that one of the
"ears" (that the two bolts go through to secure the cylinder to the
footbox) contacts the wood and the piston falls clear. Don't get too
violent with just the ear making the contact. The initial "blows" when the
end of the bore is contacting the wood shouldn't hurt anything. But you
wouldn't want to break one of the "ears" off. Does this makes sense?
If worse comes to worse you could blow it out with compressed air... screw
the lid (to the reservoir) on tightly and somehow plug the little breather
hole that's in the center of the lid, then apply compressed air to the
fitting. It should blast right out. Don't aim it at anyone!!
Good luck!
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
CF10732
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