rgb@exact.com wrote:
>
> generally this means a diode in the alternator rectifier has failed,
> seems there are 6 in there. It will run for years like this, but
> someday it will get worse. Do yourself a favor and the next time
> the car is down, drop the alt by a local rebuild center that knows
> what "Lucas" means. We've got a big place here in Austin, TX that
> will do the unit the day you drop it off.
>
> Max charge is $85, which is normally my charge as I'm dropping off
> junkyard pieces which are frozen in place... come back looking like
> new.
>
> I would NOT exchange my unit, always have yours rebuilt and all the
> connections work... and you avoid getting one of MY cores...
>
> Roger
Roger:
Thanks for the advise. I've already decided to go the route of either
tackeling the rebuild myself (rectifier is about $29) or taking to
a rebuild shop (haven't checked out prices yet). Charlie Brown's
write up seems pretty straight forward.
Only question I have, to the list also, is my Lucas alternator is
labeled
differently than any listed in the TRF catelog. It has a large 1 on the
backing (the black placstic casing) and then a box shaped outline with
the
numbers 5 6 7 vertically alligned in the box and then ACR next to the
box.
My interpretation of this would be the alternator can be used/is equal
to
the 15 ACR, the 16 ACR, and the 17 ACR. The rear wire connector has two
leads, one with three wires (smaller brown, brown/yellow, and another
brown/
yellow or white (didn't check that closely yet)) and the other with two
wires
(large brown/yellow and the ground wire). Anyone familiar with this
setup
for a Lucas alternator? Charlie, are you listening?
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
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