Hello again listers! Well, here's the latest on the problem. As you know,
the
TR6 has been dropping a cylinder intermittently at idle, but clears up right
away with acceleration. Before, I had changed out the plugs, points, wires,
condenser in preparation of working on the carbs.
Today, I broke down the vacumn chambers on both carbs, cleaned and changed out
the diaphrams. No change. Then I noticed an open inlet at the bottom of the
emissions can (proper name?) at the right front of the engine. Placed my
finger over the hole (A high, technical trick) and it got better! So, I
bought
all new hose and clamps for the emissions, from the valve cover, to each carb
and to the can. No change. Checked all other vacumn connections, and played
around with the vacumn adjustment on the distributor. No change. Took the
line off of the side of the valve cover, and plugged with my finger. (Another
high technical trick) Slight improvement.
Took my can of carb cleaner, and sprayed every place I could get to around the
intake manifold and the throttle shaft. No change, or at least very little.
Sprayed several times down the throat of the carb, improvement for a few
seconds, and then back to same. Removed the valve cover and spot checked the
valve lash adjustment. Very close to .010 on each.
Sorry this is so long, but a lot of information to impart.
The carbs had no identifying number, but had the set screw adjustment on the
piston. The front carb, the one that is apparently giving me the trouble, had
the needle set farther into the pisting than the rear. (about 1/16 of an inch.)
I did not readjust yet. I'm beginning to think I've got a valve sticking.
Goint to put some MMO in the gas, and the oil, and take him for about a 100
mile
drive today.
If this doesn't work, going to go to the doctor. Psych. for me. Thanks for
all the help. Further comments more than welcome!
Mike Barron
70 sicks
60 three
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