Hello ,
and thank you very much to Peter Wilson, Roger and Jochen Saal for their answers
on my TR 6 motor question.
I´m planning to use your experiences and will make a step by step engine job.
This is first to keep the costs reasonable and second because it is better
to see what part or worke influences power and handling/powerband how strong.
The steps are:
Checking/replacing con-rod and crankshaft bearings, pistons and bore, milling
cylinderhead to 9.5:1
belt driven radiator fan goes, electric fan comes. A belt fan will take some 6%
from the possible top-power and increase fuel consumption. Is seems to be the
easiest tuning to all cars with belt driven fan.
Discarding vacuum advance/retard on distributer
Extractor manifold and later 2-way exhaust system
S-2 camshaft
SU-carbs because those are easyer to set-up to an indvidual car as there are
many types of jets and needles availble and some motor-mags write they will
increase power and make more mpg.
Am I going to make any big mistakes?
I would like to hear from Peter about powerband and fuelconsumption after
putting the webers on his car.
It will take some time untill I can tell how it all works as I can only worke
on
my TR 6 outside of my small garage. Bad weather here seems to last until spring
(like it is every year) an I can resist lying under my car.
By the way there is a very expensive Bosch fuel injection kit offered here in
Germany. It is for TR 5, 6, and 250 and they say power will be 143 bhp and
fuelconsumption will be 10 l / 100 km (TR 3 level). They also offer a
cathalytic
converter to be used with the injection system.
Thank you again for all replys
Gerhard Wiederholl
Schwäbisch Hall, South Germany
TR 6
TR 7 RV (excuse me, this is a motorcycle)
have a look at the homepage of my local triumph club:
http://home.t-online.de/home/Triumph-IG-Suedwest-eV@t-online.de/
Peter Wilson schrieb:
> Hi Gerhard,
>
> I have also imported and restored a 1969 carb TR6 (mine came from Los
> Angeles). To get more performance than the US 104 horsepower for a
> combination of commuting and fast road/sport use, I did the following:
> - Raised compression ratio to 10.5:1 by milling cylinder head
> - Slightly smoothed out the rough cast surfaces in the cylinder head
ports
> - Reground the cam to early TR6-PI specs (35/65/65/35)
> - Discarded the vacuum advance/retard system and ran centrifugal only
> advance on the distributor
> - Installed a later twin outlet exhaust manifold and twin exhaust system
> - Used the standard US Zenith-Stromberg carbs
>
> With these mods, the engine was quite strong, and would happily run to
> 5,500 rpm. I never had the car running in its US form, so I can't make
> valid comparisons before and after. I agree with your estimate of 130 hp in
> this form. The biggest improvement would have come from the higher
> compression ratio, which gives more power and good economy. The CR to which
> you can go will depend on the type of petrol available in Germany. Mine
> runs fine on leaded (which we can still buy here) and premium unleaded
> (about 94 octane), with the only problem being a tendancy to run-on after
> the ignition is turned off. I usually put it in 4th gear and release the
> clutch to stop it!
>
> I ran the car like this for several months, but had a lot of problems with
> the Z-S carbs despite careful rebuilding and setting of all the emmision
> controls. The carbs were way too lean (and this cannot be adjusted without
> replacing the needles) and one of them would intermittently get fuel
> starvation.
>
> I looked at a number of swaps, and the most economical would have been
> swapping to a pair of 1.75" SU's from a 2500 saloon or similar, on the
> original US manifold. I have used SU's a lot on other cars and found them
> to be very reliable, economical and easy to set up. However, apart from
> richening the mixture, these carbs would not offer any performance benefit
> over the Z-S units. I have since heard of a manifold available from the US,
> which mounts 3 off 1.75" SU's. This would give better performance, would
> still be cheap to put together, but would take longer to set-up and balance.
>
> In the end however, I decided to use triple 40DCOE Webers to get a bigger
> performance benefit. I imported the bare manifold from Moss Motors in the
> US, and rebuilt 3 old carbies from 1600 Alfa Romeo Guilias to keep the cost
> reasonable. This definately made the car faster, and it now seems to be at
> least as powerful as the local (150 hp) PI cars. However, I found that the
> engine was not as willing at high revs because of the standard 27mm Alfa
> venturis I used initially, and am currently increasing to 30mm venturis.
>
> I hope that this info is useful to you, and that you find your own suitable
> compromise. I should point out that a conversion to PI would have been
> quite easy here in Australia, but I chose not to do so because of poor
> reliability (especially due to vapour-lock in hot conditions) and the
> under-bonnet fire risk.
>
> I would be interested to hear what you do, and the results!
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter Wilson
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> PS: Remember that the cyl head on your US car has different inlet port
> spacing from the UK/European cars! If you plan to fit a different inlet
> manifold, make sure you buy either a local head or a US manifold.
>
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