Justin Wagner wrote:
>
> John Duhart wrote:
> >
> > >>> Justin Wagner <jmwagner@greenheart.com> 04/13 11:44 PM >>>
> >
> > (Snip)
> >
> > >SEcondly...
> > >
> > >For those of you buying boxes at Home Depot, OSH, etc...
> > >
> > >Don't forget that the nuts have grades too... Grades 8, 5, and 2 are
> > >typical..
> > >
> > >And I would not be surprised to find some of you are putting grade 2 on
> > >your cars. Buying in quantity is THE best way to go... and it's great
> > >to be able to replace 'em as you run into 'em... but Be careful out
> > >there!
> > >
> > >--Justin
> >
> > Hey Justin.
> >
> > I bought mine from a boat shop. I asked the owner what grade the nuts
>were, he looked down his nose and said nuts don't come in grades. I know
>bolts come in grades, but how do you tell what grade the nut is?
> >
> > Later,
> > JHD IV
> >
>
> I hate to tell you this... but you know what grade it is by buying them
> from a source that can provide this information. Generally, if they're
> zinc plated, they all look "pretty"... I'm not aware of any markings
> that would tell you after the fact, but then, I haven't sat down and
> compared them either. Maybe someone has?
Grade 8 nuts are marked--someone mentioned earlier that they are also
marked with lines, but most of the ones I see at work have a small bump
on the face at the apex of each flat--six marks, equivalent to six lines
on a bolt head.
> There are many different grades. This is something that you have to
> take seriously. If the application calls for grade 8 bolts... It might
> be a good idea to match them with grade 8 nuts, etc.
The weaker part will fail first, so the torque applied should be in
relation to the weaker part, so it's a waste of money to use a grade 8
bolt with a grade 5 nut--the object, of course, is to raise the clamp
load, which can't be done without matching hardware. You're absolutely
right about this, Justin.
Cheers.
--
My other Triumph runs, but....
|