MR DANIEL R CAREY wrote:
>
> gonna buy a replacement top...nobody will replace the windows in my
> old one
> looking at AMCO and Robbins
> any pointers?
You'll need a pop-rivet gun, electric drill & glue
> any helps with installation hints
BTDThis a few times, most recently a couple of weeks ago. This last
time I tried an AMCO. I found it the easiest to install. The snaps
are already installed in the top. The holes are already punched for
the three snap / metal bar rear attachement. The front edge is pre-
marked with a reference line. The top seems to be good quality as
well.
> how do i get the front edge of the old top away from the metal frame?
Pull the rubber seal out from it's retaining channel. Drill out the
pop-rivets that fasten the three channel sections to the front header
rail (could be screws here instead). Peel away the front of the old
top from header rail (it's probably been glued, and may tear).
> should i save the rear metal strip that attached to the car?
Absolutely, you'll need it. Same drill to remove it from fabric.
If your new top is an AMCO, you will have to enlarge the three holes
slightly to accomodate the machine screws that they use to attach the
rear snaps.
> are replacemnt tops nice and tight...or do i have to play?
You decide how tight to make it. The AMCO "pre-marked" line at the
front makes this part a lot easier. But it's only a guide. I fitted
mine about 1/2 inch "tighter" than their instruction call out.
The tricky bit is getting that rubber seal back in the retaining
channels. It takes *lots* of patience and perseverance, especially
if fitting a new piece of rubber here.
> best prices for a top?
British Parts NorthWest had the best price I could find.
Good Luck,
Bob
--
Bob Sykes
"You can't beat your brains for entertainment."
|