John,
I've found that the life of the plastic zippers can be extended considerably by
the light application of a silicone lubricant. If yours is beyond repair, most
any Top Shop or auto Upholstery Shop can install a metal zipper at a reasonable
cost.
Jim Davis
Fortson, GA
CF38690UO
CF37325U
John Reynolds wrote:
> I found if you use a paint can opener to push the rubber seal into the
> channel it's a simple 5 min. job to replace the front gasket. Just put one
> side of the gasket into the channel and use the rounded end of the opener
> to seat the other side.
>
> Does anyone make a top with a metal window zipper? The plastic ones don't
> last too long or maybe I'm too ham fisted with them.
>
> John
>
> 71 TR6
>
> ----------
> > From: Bob Sykes <s1500@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: MR DANIEL R CAREY <QAZX57A@prodigy.com>
> > Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: SPIT Convertible top Advice needed
> > Date: Thursday, July 02, 1998 7:13 PM
> >
> >
> > MR DANIEL R CAREY wrote:
> > >
> > > gonna buy a replacement top...nobody will replace the windows in my
> > > old one
> > > looking at AMCO and Robbins
> > > any pointers?
> >
> > You'll need a pop-rivet gun, electric drill & glue
> >
> > > any helps with installation hints
> >
> > BTDThis a few times, most recently a couple of weeks ago. This last
> > time I tried an AMCO. I found it the easiest to install. The snaps
> > are already installed in the top. The holes are already punched for
> > the three snap / metal bar rear attachement. The front edge is pre-
> > marked with a reference line. The top seems to be good quality as
> > well.
> >
> > > how do i get the front edge of the old top away from the metal frame?
> >
> > Pull the rubber seal out from it's retaining channel. Drill out the
> > pop-rivets that fasten the three channel sections to the front header
> > rail (could be screws here instead). Peel away the front of the old
> > top from header rail (it's probably been glued, and may tear).
> >
> > > should i save the rear metal strip that attached to the car?
> >
> > Absolutely, you'll need it. Same drill to remove it from fabric.
> > If your new top is an AMCO, you will have to enlarge the three holes
> > slightly to accomodate the machine screws that they use to attach the
> > rear snaps.
> >
> > > are replacemnt tops nice and tight...or do i have to play?
> >
> > You decide how tight to make it. The AMCO "pre-marked" line at the
> > front makes this part a lot easier. But it's only a guide. I fitted
> > mine about 1/2 inch "tighter" than their instruction call out.
> >
> > The tricky bit is getting that rubber seal back in the retaining
> > channels. It takes *lots* of patience and perseverance, especially
> > if fitting a new piece of rubber here.
> >
> > > best prices for a top?
> >
> > British Parts NorthWest had the best price I could find.
> >
> > Good Luck,
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > --
> > Bob Sykes
> > "You can't beat your brains for entertainment."
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