> I'm installing a front anti-sway bar back in my TR6. The
> original one was damaged and the links were bad, so I ordered an
> Addco front sway bar from TRF. I first tried to install it last
> year, but with the "handling kit" springs, it wouldn't fit. I've
> since gone back to the regular springs, and now it almost fits.
> The brackets that attach to the a-arm are as far toward the
> center of the car as they can go - to the point of having the
> vertical link contact the a-arm.
>
> Has anyone successfully installed this bar in their TR6? Is
> there a trick to it? Could you mount the brackets to the
> radiator shroud in the same location as the original brackets or
> did you have to move them inside the frame rail?
I just finished installing the ADDCO swaybars to my TR6 this past
weekend. The front swaybar was a pain, but you should be able to fit it
without too much difficulty. I also added the mild comp springs from
TRF at the same time.
1- cut the old u-bolts in half with the Dremel cut-off disc.
2- remove the old swaybar by taking the links off the lower a-arm.
3- remove links from old sway-bar (make sure they are still firm in the
rubber joint or buy new ones)
4- mount the links to the new swaybar on the bench using the washers
from the TR part. I bought poly bushes at Pep Boys to replace the
rubber ones.
5- mount the links/bar back on the a-arm
6- line up the bar to the lower radiator pan. I used one of the holes
and drilled a new one for the back. Even though I was careful, I had to
enlarge the holes to get the square u-bolt in and lined up. With a
little fiddling it works like they say.
7- I forgot to order poly swaybar mount bushes (Vicky Brit) so I used
the rubber crap that came with them. They have a slit, so you can add
them now, but I'd bet with poly you have to slide them on before step
4.
8- I tightened everything up before I set it back on it's wheels, so I
plan on loosening it all up at some point and retightening while it's
on the ground.
The rear swaybar was more of a pain. They supply 2 washers top and
bottom to center the link (really just a 5.5" 5/16" bolt with locating
washers for the bushes) that are intended to hold the bush in place in
the hole inside the rear spring. We've all done it when we didn't have
the right size washer, use a smaller washer to close the hole in the
bigger one, but you'd think they would source a bigger washer with the
right size hole. I couldn't find one locally. I wish I had taken the
time to have the smaller washer welded to the bigger one. I can see the
link bolt sliding around under torque. What I did was buy a boat
trailer roller. It is fairly hard rubber, shaped like this I>-<I.
I cut it in half into little Apollo spacecraft shaped cones and sized
it to fit the recess under the trailing arm. I then used the 2 washers
below it and inside the spring. I again subbed the poly bushes and
bolted it all up. The bushes have lips that fit inside the smaller
washers to hold it in place. Drilling for the mounts is almost the same
as the front except that they are angled to fit the location.
It was a pain, but really not that difficult. Give it another try.
Bob Kramer, Austin TX
Hill Country Triumph Club
TR6's, TR250's, TR3A vintage race
rgk@flash.net
|