Ken... a few suggestions...
1. If you lay down 1 to 2 inch masking tape along your cut... on both sides of
the material...... so that you're cutting down the middle of the tape (or
thereabouts) this will help limit the mess... I'm assuming you're using a
jigsaw... you might want to get a blade with finer teeth and, if the turns are
tight... a narrow blade. (more than one layer of tape won't hurt either.).
2. Another option: since a left panel is probably the same as a right panel...
you might want to make a 1/2" MDF pattern... that you can sand and make all
perfect... and then use a router with a trim bit to make the pairs of 1/8
panels... and you could keep the master for replacements or other TR's...
If you do this, I recommend you still rough cut the 1/8" material to within
about 1/4" or so of master...(with a jigsaw, etc.) so that the router bit
won't have to fight as much... hence... a cleaner cut and less wear on your
router bit.
3. Switch to 1/8" Styrene... it won't absorb water, odors, etc... won't rot...
and can be cut by scoring with a matte knife... even the curves. (you score,
relatively deeply... then break it along the score...) Usually it's sold in
white... but you can find black.
4. Use 1/8" Sentra and use either method above. This stuff cuts nicely and
routes beautifully.
--Justin
Gano, Ken wrote:
> I am attempting to "remanufacture" four of the interior panels in the TR3
> and purchased a sheet of 1/8" masonite for the base. Every time I try to
> cut it with the reciprocating saw or the sawzall it either rips or the edge
> "balls up" and makes a sloppy cut.
>
> Does anyone have a good suggestion to make these cuts, particularly the
> curves. I seem to get a nice cut with a circular saw and a very thin blade,
> but this will not work on the curves.
>
> TIA
>
> kengano@advant.com
> downstate illinois
> 1959 TR3A TS57756L
> 1958 Model 10 Sedan TBE9239LDLB
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