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Re: Well beyond baffled

To: "unicorn7" <unicorn7@mail.icnet.net>, <jaltman@altlaw.com>
Subject: Re: Well beyond baffled
From: "Michael T." <carrera@frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 09:09:39 -0400charset="iso-8859-1"
Cc: "Triumphs" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Don't go jumping on to the 'heat related' bandwagon just yet. That is if
you're talking about heat affecting the fuel, vapor lock, boiling, etc, and
not ambient temperature. You may just be experiencing the Autumn-time Blues
(tuned for summer, forgot it was going to get cold). Let's start by
answering a few basic questions.
1) How does it run when not up to operating temp?
2) At operating temp, does it run better or worse when the ambient temp is
cool/cold?
3) Is it hard to start when fully warmed?
4) When it is running poorly at operating temp and you engage the choke
(assuming IT is working properly..), does it run better or worse?
These answers will at least give a little direction to your search.

Good Luck,

Michael Cook
'74 TR6
'88 GTi 16v
'88 Ducati 877 Paso


-----Original Message-----
From: unicorn7 <unicorn7@mail.icnet.net>
To: jaltman@altlaw.com <jaltman@altlaw.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, October 02, 1998 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: Well beyond baffled


>
>Possibly something heat related?  When was the last time the coolant was
>replaced and the system flushed?
>Almost sounds like you're leaning out the mix (that's why the choke helps)
>fuel might be getting too hot.  Are the fuel lines in the original
locations
>(supposedly got pretty warm there)?  I'd consider some sort of insulation
>over the lines from the fuel pump to the carbs (have you thought about the
>possibility that you might be close  boiling the fuel in the bowls as it
>picks up radiated heat from the engine and the manifold).
>
>Dave Korzun
>'69 GT6+
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: jaltman@altlaw.com <jaltman@altlaw.com>
>To: tedtsimx@q1.net <tedtsimx@q1.net>; 'Triumph List'
><triumphs@autox.team.net>
>Date: Friday, October 02, 1998 4:40 PM
>Subject: Well beyond baffled
>
>
>>
>>I thought Ted had hit on something when he suggested checking the
>>connections at the solenoid, as that is where all the electricity passes
>by.
>>They were pretty cruddy, I cleaned it all up, but to no avail.  Let me
>>summarize.  Engine is perky and runs fine.  Spend 15 minutes on the
>freeway,
>>get off and it dies.  Let it sit for 5 minutes and its fine (well much
>>better).  I have:
>>
>>replaced coil
>>replaced condenser
>>replaced points
>>replaced dizzy cap
>>replaced rotor
>>replaced plug wires, coil wire
>>replaced alternator
>>plugs are about 6 months old good color, look fine.
>>cleaned and checked advance weights and springs
>>cleaned and checked vacuum advance (retard is disconnected)
>>cleaned and checked all wires in dizzy, low voltage coil, alternator
>>cleaned and checked wires at solenoid
>>checked timing and dwell
>>balanced carbs
>>
>>When starting cold (no choke) it idles around 1300 and as it warms it
>drifts
>>down to about 900.  There is an occasional miss and cough from the carbs.
>It
>>is basically fine till 15 minutes on the freeway or about an hour of city
>>traffic.  Then I can't maintain an idle.  Usually, I can put it high idle
>>with the choke and survive.   I degreased the engine 3-4 weeks ago and did
>>NOT have the problem for about 7 days when it returned. I am running out
of
>>things to check/replace.
>>
>>Jim Altman  jaltman@altlaw.com Illigitimi non Carborundum
>>http://www.altlaw.com/metro/jaltman.html    69-TR6#CC28754L  W4UCK
>>
>>
>
>


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