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Re: TR4 temp reading

To: walker05@camosun.bc.ca, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: TR4 temp reading
From: cloughbt@batman.flight.wpafb.af.mil (Bruce T. Clough)
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 10:43:29 -0400
Malcolm, 

Thought I'd shed a bit of my miniscule knowledge with you.
> 
> My temp gauge never seems to exceed 70 degrees centigrade.  Is this a sign
> that everything is working properly, or is the gauge not reading right?
> 
Probably a sign that your thermostat is sticking open, but check all the 
electrical connections anyway.  This includes pulling the sender and cleaning 
the threads.

> FWIW the gas gauge appears to be consistently wrong. (reads far too low)
> I can test the gauge by disconnecting the lead and grounding it, right?

Whoa, maybe I'm a bit too fast on that last advice.  Ground out the gas sender 
and see if you get full scale deflection on the gauge (yeah, I know I'm 
assuming a certain gauge circuit, but I don't have my schemos in front of me).  
If you don't, clean all connections from the voltage stabilizer on.  If it now 
will deflect full scale, then the problem is solved.  If not, the problem could 
be related to your temp reading being too low, that is, the voltage stabilizer 
is putting out too low a voltage. In this case, both the gas and temp gauges 
would be reading low.  Insure that the voltage stabilizer has good connections 
and ground.  The stabilizer puts out slightly over 10V (again, I think 'cause I 
have no refs here at work), so you might want to check this.

  
> Also, I was losing fluid out the overflow today- I figured that the Bar's
> Leaks had done its thing and therefore I had too much coolant in the rad.
> Before it would come out a bad solder joint in the top.
> 

You might also have a leaky head gasket.  Did you rebuild the engine, or have 
the head off lately?  Retorque the head nuts and see if this goes away.  I 
personally will go without beer (I know, blasphemy) to get $$ to rebild a 
radiator rather than use Barr's Leak!
 

> Yes, I know I should have a new radiator.  But I don't have the $$$ right
> now.  I might go for a re-core, or I will see if a newer rad from a
> different car will fit.

See if a radiator shop can take yours apart, clean and resolder.  This costs me 
$50 where I live.  Much cheaper than a new radiator or recore.

> 
> Another thing I notice- the rad was making slight "gloomf" noises right
> after shut down when I got home.  Is this normal, or could something be
> plugged?

That could either be steam generated by hot spots when you stop circulating 
water, or it could be reaction to a head gasket leak.  The classic head gasket 
leak reaction is for the radiator to spew fluid after shutting down to the 
point where little fluid is left after a few drives.  Gurgling noises are 
always evident.

Well, good luck - I hope this helped,

Bruce Clough

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