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RE: TR6 Head

To: hammers@pa.net, "'Bristol7@aol.com'" <Bristol7@aol.com>
Subject: RE: TR6 Head
From: Gernot Vonhoegen <gernot.vonhoegen@stir.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 14:40:51 +0100
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
well, the rope trick is fine for that, just make sure there is absolutely no
way that there is anything still holding on to the thing. My TR6's head came
off quite easily, may be you have one of the asbestos type gaskets, they
tend to be sticky, which is the reason why I don't like them (plus they need
a lot of cleaning up on head and bock whereas the copper ones just get taken
off and thats it.
Gernot

> ----------
> From:         Bristol7@aol.com[SMTP:Bristol7@aol.com]
> Reply To:     Bristol7@aol.com
> Sent:         Monday, October 19, 1998 1:35 AM
> To:   hammers@pa.net
> Cc:   triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject:      Re: TR6 Head
> 
> 
> In a message dated 98-10-17 20:36:53 EDT, you write:
> 
> << Help!  Last week-end I blew the head gasket on my '75 TR6.  This
> week-end I
>  am trying to remove the head.  I believe I have all of the stuff off of
> it
>  that needs to come off.  Even the studs are screwed out. I've turned the
>  engine with the starter and hit the head pretty hard with a hammer (no
>  relitive).  I'm using a regular hammer and a block of wood so as not to
>  damage.  Rather than get the sledge out and really have a go at it I
> thought
>  I would ask for suggestions.  I seem to remmember putting a rope in a
> spark
>  plug hole and letting that pry the head up?  Before I get too creative
> and
>  cause irreparable damage, I think I'll wait for advice from someone who
>  knows.  Thank you in advance.
>  
>  Steve Hammer
>  75 TR6  battered but not headless
>   >>
> 
>  I have done this several times before with a stuck head. 
>  Undress your  head, i.e. no manifolds, cylinder head studs 
>  or nuts, water pump housing, rocker arm assembly, etc. After 
>  your head is completely nude,  find yourself a 4-5 foot (1.5 meter 
>  or so) metal bar from a weight lifting set or some similar type of 
>  solid, cylinder type bar. Place one end of the bar inside an exhaust 
>  manifold port in the middle of the head and very, very gently lever 
>  upwards on the other end.Use steady pressure upwards and do not 
>  rock or ratchet the head. You  should  be rewarded with a "pop" 
>  sound and the gentle tinkle of coolant hitting your floor as the head 
>  and block part company. Be very careful of that distributor on the left 
>  hand side of your engine! You don't want to have the block bump into 
>  it and really ruin your day....have a friend spot that side of the
> engine. 
>  DO NOT TRY THIS ON  ALUMINUM  HEADS. I did and I had everyone 
>  at the local auto machine shop in stitches. My head was also trashed!  
> 
>  As far as I know, I have been the only one on this list to have suggested
>  this procedure for removing a stuck head. You might wait for suggestions 
>  from others on this list who may advise a better method or have good
>  reasons for not attempting to remove the head as I described above.
>  
>  Good Luck and let us know how it turns out. 
>  
>  Best Regards, 
>  Kirk Yonker 
>  81 TR8 Dhc Fi BOS     
>  Seattle    
>    
> 
>    
> 
>   
> 

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