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Re: !#$%**&@#$ Hubs!

To: mmarr@idcnet.com
Subject: Re: !#$%**&@#$ Hubs!
From: KTRIUMPH@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 18:13:07 EST
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
In a message dated 2/15/99 10:36:59 AM EST, mmarr@idcnet.com writes:

<< Seems to me that the pictures of the Churchill puller that I have seen show
 that the jack screw has a large diameter with fine thread.  Going back to
 Physics 101, inclined planes and resolution of forces, this means that as
 the screw is turned, relatively more of your effort (torque) is converted
 into axial force and relatively less into frictional force because the
 component of the turning force normal to the plane of the screw thread
 increases as the thread becomes coarser, thereby increasing the frictional
 force on the nut.  I bet that most of the home made pullers I have seen
 described have relatively small diameter, coarse threaded jack screws.
 Thus, much of the energy applied to turning the jack screw is absorbed
 overcoming the inherent friction in the system, and ultimately in straining
 the jack screw.  If this is the case in your example, my suggestion is to
 buy the largest practical diameter, finest thread (hardened) nut and bolt
 that you can find and use this.  (Remember, for a given number of tpi, the
 larger the diameter, the lesser the angle of the inclined plane.)  Even
 better, find a tool and die shop that can make a hardened jack screw/nut
 combination, say 1.5 ins in diameter and 16 tpi, then weld this to your
 existing puller in place of the screw you are presently using.  Remember to
 use lots of lubricant on the jack screw, to minimize the demon friction.
  >>
The tool is hydraulic, filled with grease. There's no screw masher like a
regular puller.
Thought I'd mention it.

Ken Nuelle
58 TR3A
62 TR3B
64 TR4

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