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Re: Four wheel disc brakes?

To: rgb@exact.com
Subject: Re: Four wheel disc brakes?
From: Steve Chandler <steve@obagy.com>
Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 15:31:24 -0700
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Organization: Chandler O'Bagy
References: <9905011200.AA12411@exact.exact.com>
One point to note here is the .75" rear cylinders (and seal kits) are no
longer available, these will be very hard to find.

steve

rgb@exact.com wrote:
> 
> >update a TR4-TR6 to have 4 wheel disc brakes
> 
> I am certain its possible, but I would have to question "why"?  see below.
> 
> >From my experience driving multiple TR6's, many of the TR6's are
> extremely un-street worthy, i.e. death traps.   Is yours?   If you
> cannot answer that you KNOW the condition of the following items,
> then you shouldn't be on the the roads - any road.
> 
> >way many people drive now days, I would like the additional stopping
> 
> I agree, the modern roads are high speed, fast paced, with no margin
> for driver error or mechanical malfunction...
> 
> So, the goal is more stopping power on a TR6?   Then, the rear brakes
> would be the last item to consider.   Its a front heavy car with huge
> discs designed in already, these should be optimized.  Oh, and do not
> forget the most important piece ---  the tires.
> (new 3400lb Mustang V8's have 11" rotors, 2400lb TR6 has 10.75" rotors)
> 
> I will attempt to itemize in order the items to apply
> 
> 1.  verify the front braking system is perfect, likely SS caliper pistons
>     to rid yourself of those rusted pits and rebuilt hydraulics (I run
>     DOT 5 to make certain the seals always work after sitting)
> 2.  new brake hoses on the front
> 3.  new front discs, these are 1/2" thick and work great when fresh, they
>     loose the ability to disipate heat as they thin... just replace them
> 4.  HP front disc pads, I use TRF's brand (HP pads and new discs will really
>     fix the stopping)
> 5.  Front end bushings, sway bar mountings, shocks, steering all perfect
>     (I only use poly or nylon bushings)
> 
> At this point, you've fixed the brake problems, up the ladder we go.
> 
> 6a. OEM redlines, throw these as far as you can, these rubber donuts
>     are not up to modern roads.   I've spun several cars on these,
>     even brand "new" ones, its a 60's design made of 60's materials
>     (prior to putting a man on the moon, or microprocessors)  OBSOLETE!
>     These tires are useful for parades and Concours ONLY.   In fact for
>     concours the rule book states that an accepted replacement tire is
>     acceptable (a very questionable area, but in theory they cannot deduct
>     for 205/70 tires, I like the Michelin 205VR70-15, these have stiff
>     sidewalls and work well on stock rims, the rims better be straight)
> 6b. Mag wheels, buy those 15x7 zero offset Panasports and some 215VR65-15
>     tires, this provides a massive footprint, holds the tire patch level
>     and "looks" vintage.  Forget the 6" width, buy the 7" (confirm 5 above).
> 
> NOW TO THE MOST important item
> 
> 8.  rear brake lights - all modern cars have 3 huge bright lights, I
>     will contend that this places you at a disadvantage, 2 little faint
>     bulbs just don't cut it, Bubba doesn't even hit the brake pedal, if
>     you've done the above item, you can stop faster than Bubba's truck!
> 
> Now to the rear  (10 and 11 are racing mods)
> 
> 8.  rebuild all rear, shocks, bushings, etc to keep it in control
> 9.  New shoes, all brake parts in excellent shape
> 10. Larger rear wheel cylinders, note the 76 cars went from .70 -> .75
>     pistons for better stopping, also used a different emergency brake
>     leverage to make this better.   Racers fit 7/8" rear Datson pistons
>     for even more rear brakes
> 11. Fit 240/260/280Z rear aluminum drums (slight machining) to increase
>     the cooling back there.
> 
> --
> Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 512-345-2879

-- 
Steve Chandler - Chandler O'Bagy - steve@obagy.com

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