If you've got a voltmeter, place it's leads across the coil. You'll most
likely read the battery voltage, about 12 volts. Have someone crank the
engine while continuing to hold the meter across the coil. The voltage
reading should either fluctuate with an analog meter (needle type) or
drop to a lower level (much lower than the battery voltage) with a
digital type.
You can bet that if the ammeter was pegged by the old coil, the box is
fried. I'd guarantee it.
"Paul g. Wiegman" wrote:
> List:
>
> Midnight died yesterday, right in front of the
> Pittsburgh Civic Arena, home of the Pittsburgh
> Penguins. No warning, just stopped.
>
> Mario and Jarmir helped get it onto the berm, and
> I check fuel. Yes
> Checked spark, no. None off the plugs and none
> from the center of the coil. Also, the amp gage
> went to the far left with the key on.
>
> Ah the embarrassment of a tow. Of course, all of
> the neighbors we out walking the hood when we
> pulled on to the street.
>
> Hood up and a spare coil connected. Amp back to
> normal on the key, 12 volts to the coil terminals,
> still no spark.
>
> Now the question. The car has a Crane Cams XR700
> ignition box (which was very hot at the time of
> death). Is there anyway of testing the box? I'll
> spring for a new coil, but at $130 I'd like to
> know for sure that the gold box is the problem.
>
> Paul g. Wiegman
> Allison Park, Pa
> 1956 TR3
> TS14551L
--
George Richardson
The Wyvern - '57 TR3, TS15559L - http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
The Hippogrif - '71 Stag MKI, LE8176E - soon to get a site of it's own
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