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Re: Pinion Torque-A dead horse? I think not!

To: Pete & Aprille Chadwell <dynamic@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Pinion Torque-A dead horse? I think not!
From: David Hill <davhill@cwcom.net>
Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 18:25:40 +0100
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net, 2000 Register <2000-register@autox.team.net>
Organization: Psychomotor
References: <l03130303b358b1b4c208@[209.51.91.83]>


Pete & Aprille Chadwell wrote:
> 
> To all:
> I don't know that this issue has been resolved yet, believe it or else.  I
> HAVE come to the conclusion, as some of you have, that the correct measure
> in the Bentley manual is FOOT-pounds.  Although I'm no Albert Einstein in
> matters mathematical, with the help of my desktop conversion calculator I
> was able to nail down those metric equivalents given on page 364.  {12.4 to
> 16.6 kgf m} is equal to {99.48 to 133.1 lbf ft.}  (near as I can figure,
> anyway... maybe I missed something?)
<megasnip>

Hi, Pete and Aprille,

Been following all this with interest. My cars the saloon, which has
much the same diff but has a quill shaft and a splined drive piece on
the diff nose (which would appear to be different from the TR). I have
no torque figure for the nut but, as a general rule, here's how I've
always done axle pinion seals....

Collapsible Spacer Type-Mark the shaft and nut, count the number of
turns until the nut comes off, do the business and put the same nut back
precisly where it was-works every time. 

Shimmed Type-The spacer and shims are pre-calculated and won't be easily
crushed so, unless tightened to a squillion ft-lbs., the crownwheel and
pinion mesh should remain constant. 

For my part, I'd rather risk a touch of extra backlash than have the nut
loose and risk the drive piece fretting on the pinion shaft. So, I'll be
checking with my suppliers (Cardinal) to find out what the torque should
be. 

best regards, 

Dave Hill



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