Steve
I've just remembered how I have done this in the past - I put the
clutch bolts back in in two or three holes on the flywheel, then jammed
a socket bar between them. A swift blow on the wrench or whatever on the
bolts in question whilst holding the bar and they soon come off! It
helps if someone else holds the socket bar (or anything handy like a
crowbar) but it is possible on your own !
--
Cheers
Brian Johnson (UK)
1963 TR4 AFP 503A (UK) / IZS 733(USA) - CT27216-L (now not L but O )
1954 TR2 46 BHX TS554-O UK Car in pieces
1989 Vauxhall Cavalier 2.0 GLI - Eurobox but it goes !
Internet b.johnson@lycosmail.com
New website http://websites.diamond.co.uk/~b.johnson/index.htm
Skip Montanaro wrote:
>
> Steve> I'm in the midst of replacing my clutch and I need to replace a
> Steve> leaking rear main engine seal. This morning I've been trying to
> Steve> get the flywheel off but I'm having trouble getting the engine to
> Steve> bind on something so it doesnt turn over.
>
> I don't know if they are universally applicable, but in another life
> fiddling with old Porsches, we used to use a U-shaped gizmo that had a hole
> in the bottom of the U. The "legs" of the U engaged the teeth of the
> flywheel. A long bolt was run through a transmission mounting hole in the
> engine block, through the hole in the U and snugged down with a nut.
>
> I made a bad drawing of such a bracket (I can't draw worth a damn) and
> placed it at
>
> http://www.musi-cal.com/~skip/bracket.gif
>
> I don't know if it such a device would fit on Triumphs, but it might give
> you some ideas about how to secure your flywheel.
>
> I agree with the others who have posted that you don't want to be bashing
> your torque wrench. Besides the possibility of obvious damage, after
> whacking it, even if it appears fine, how can you trust its calibration
> anymore?
>
> Skip Montanaro | Mojam: "Uniting the World of Music" http://www.mojam.com/
> skip@mojam.com | Musi-Cal: http://www.musi-cal.com/
> 518-372-5583
|
