Steve Nabors wrote:
> Hi,
> I just installed a new clutch, TOB, sleeve and pressure plate. The taper pin
>was fine and fork pins were in good shape. I put new oil in the tranny(95W-140
>I think). My forward gears work fine. Reverse does a little grinding and
>eventually 'slows down' and goes into gear. By 'slow down' it acts like the
>clutch is not engaging(or slipping) and the grinding slows down until the gear
>catches. I tried the old trick of putting it in another gear and then trying
>reverse(as reverse has no syncro I understand) but that does not work here.
>
> This was not a problem before.
>
> My two push rods(pedal and slave cylinder) look like they've never been
>replaced and I will replace them on the next mail order.
>
> Just in case I went ahead and rebuilt the Master and Slave cylinders. I think
>they were fine before though.
>
> Any ideas whats going on? Is the clutch engagement marginal?
>
> I've not bolted the tranny cover back down as I may change the fluid(if
>anyone has a different recomendation for oil on the tranny). Maybe the new
>thick oil is playing a role here. Like I said, it works fine in all forward
>gears.
>
> Join 18 million Eudora users by signing up for a free Eudora Web-Mail account
>at http://www.eudoramail.com
Steve,
Most likely is that you have too much slop in your linkage. The clutch worked
fine before because the disk was worn thin and less pedal travel was required
to disengage the clutch. Now that the new disk is thicker, you aren't getting
enough travel. Here are a few things to look at:
1. Bleed the system again. Take the slave cylinder bolts out and hold the
cylinder vertical with a slight pitch toward the side with the bleeder. Have
trusty assistant handy to pour fluid into the master. Crack open the bleeder
on the slave - fluid should siphon from the master into the slave. If you have
a tiny amount of air, you may need to have your helper push the pedal once to
get the flow going. Quickly pour into the master and fluid will flow out the
bleeder tube by gravity without pumping the pedal. Watch the red hose for
bubbles coming down and wait for them to exit the bleeder tube. You'd be
surprised at how many bubbles you get out this way even though you thought the
system was 'clean'. It is also a very fast way to bleed the clutch.
2. Check the pedal, cross-shaft, and clevis' on both for wear. I always see
excessive wear on the pedal-to-slave clevis, probably because this gets
overlooked for lubrication and it is a high load joint. There shouldn't be any
free play between the pedal and the clevis. The system has free play built
into the master itself. If you can move the pedal and clevis independent of
one another, you need to replace the clevis, pin, and possibly remove the pedal
box, weld up the worn hole and redrill. Lube this regularly for long service.
3. Make sure your carpet (or anything else) isn't interfering with the clutch
pedal stop. This is a small piece of thin metal tack welded to the pedal so
that it contacts the front lip of the pedal box. You should hear it 'click'
when you press the pedal to the floor. If your carpet is bunched up, perhaps
folded over on itself in this area, you will not be getting enough travel.
Good luck!
Regards,
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Power British Check out Power British
371 E. Main St. on the 'net!
Norristown, PA 19401
(610) 270-0505 http://www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
---------------------------------------------------------------------
|