Hi list!
Well the responses are in. I want to thank you all for: 1- responding;
2- accepting my method of going about answering the question; 3-
allowing me to post your response on the list. I really enjoyed the
input & found out more info & tech. beside the input that has been given
in the passed years on this related topic. -Cosmo Kramer
///////////////////////////////
Topic of "priming the engine" after looong periods of time sitting
ideal
[about 5 or more months]. I put my car to "bed" for the winter. I change
the oil & filter but will short the amount the oil by about 1 USA Qt.
When I'm ready to start-up the car for the 1st time in spring, I'll put
a Qt. of oil in the mike-a-way & heat it up a little. Then poor it into
the engine & fire up the TR.
Question:
1- Is this bad for the engine?
2- What about if I drain the oil, replace the oil filter & place
oil
ONLY in the canister; thus leaving the engine dry. When spring comes I
then poor in all fresh oil to the "full"point & then start-up the
engine. -Cosmo Kramer
************ Responses in order of receiving them:
From: Randall <randallyoung@earthlink.net>
I see nothing particularly wrong with your procedure, except that I
always like to run the engine a little immediately before and after an
oil change. Before to make sure all the surfaces are wetted with oil
(and to make the oil drain easier), and afterwards to fill the filter
while everything is still wet.
But, I'm not convinced it makes any difference, as long as you use a
quality oil. I once disassembled a TR3 engine that had been sitting
with the oil pan off for about 5 months, and found that not only were
the bearings, cylinders and camshaft still wet with oil, there was still
oil in the galleries. The experience made me a believer in Valvoline
oil, which I've been using ever since. -Randall
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From: "Fred Thomas" <vafred@erols.com>
Cosmo, never drain the oil unless you refill it completely,
including the
filter. Winter storage == drain & change oil & filter, remove the
battery
cables. Spring arrives == drain & change the oil & filter, install the
fully
charged battery, enjoy your driving season. The reason for the spring
change
is the moisture that has also taken up winter storage in your garage,
oil
should be changed at least twice a year, even on stored cars not being
driven. Where does this recommended procedure come from, every antique
car
book I have ever read, as well as from the Model A club of America, the
Mustand Club of America, and many more. "FT"
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From: Pete & Aprille Chadwell <dynamic@transport.com>
Here's a trick that I used when I started my TR6 engine after a
rebuild. The considerations are the same after a rebuild as they are
after a long period of sitting. That is, there's no oil ANYWHERE but
in the sump, and it does no good at all just sitting there in the
sump. The key is to fill all the oil passageways that you can, and
that takes a little bit of oil pressure. So, at the recommendation
of a buddy of mine who experience with such things, I filled up an
ordinary plant sprayer with 4 or 5 qts. of oil, and then after
fashioning an adapter to the end of the sprayer's hose, I removed the
oil pressure sending switch and threaded the adapter into the hole in
the block. Then I pumped up the sprayer to get pressure and kept
pumping until I had pumped MOST of that oil into the engine. In this
way, oil was forced under PRESSURE, into all the oil passageways
where it was IMMEDIATELY available to all the critical parts the
instant that the engine fired.
I'd say you'd want to store the car with a full load of oil, but
right before starting it up again, dump that oil and pump in fresh
oil via the sprayer method. For an added measure of safety, pull the
coil wire and the spark plugs before pumping in the oil and then
RIGHT AFTER you're done spin the engine briefly with the starter to
prime it a little more thoroughly. QUICKLY reinstall plugs (the
motor will really spin fast with no plugs) and coil wire and fire it
up! The key is to not let the engine sit too long after pumping in
the oil before you start it, or all that oil will drain back into the
sump again!! -Pete Chadwell
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From: "Graham Stretch" <technical-iwnet@lineone.net>
Hi Cosmo
I wouldn't advise leaving the sump empty for long periods as this would
only
encourage rust to form in the pan, with regard to the warm oil this is
probably a good idea providing you don't heat the oil too hot (may cause
deterioration if you get it very hot) as the hot oil will warm the
remaining
oil and reduce the viscosity (guess this was the plan) it may also
contribute some warmth to the block and help it fire earlier. With
regard
to priming the engine after long periods, I use my cars regularly but if
left for more than a couple of weeks (or when I find another vehicle
that
has been stood a while) I leave the choke control in and crank for
about 30
seconds at a time until the oil light extinguishes. If the vehicle has
been
stood for 5 months a drop or two of oil down the bores would probably
help.
I used to crank continuously until I had the wires come unsoldered from
the
segments inside the starter (those things will burn you if you touch
them
after long periods of cranking). If your engine will fire without the
choke
either you live somewhere too hot (why do you hibernate your car) or the
mixture is too rich, all Triumphs should need choke to start if you live
in
moderate climes!! If yours is one that doesn't need choke remove the low
tension wire. -Graham
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From: "John Macartney" <jonmac@ndirect.co.uk>
Cosmo,
It's my guess you'll get many different answers and each one will "be
the best you can do."
Topic of "priming the engine" after looong periods of time sitting idel
[about 5 or more
months]. I put my car to "bed" for the winter. I change the oil & filter
but will short
the amount the oil by about 1 USA Qt. When I'm ready to start-up the car
for the 1st time in spring, I'll put a Qt. of oil in the mike-a-way &
heat it up a little. Then poor it
into the engine & fire up the TR.
Warmed oil into a sumpful of cold oil won't make any difference to oil
quality, lubing
quality - or much else.
Question:
1- Is this bad for the engine?
No. The engine won't have started.
2- What about if I drain the oil, replace the oil filter & place oil
ONLY in the canister; thus leaving the engine dry. When spring comes I
then poor in all fresh oil to the "full"point & then start-up the
engine.
Not such a good idea though it depends where you live. If subjected to
winter cold and possibly damp as well, you could be allowing traces of
damp to get onto surfaces that would otherwise be protected by oil.
When my car is laid up for the winter, I change the oil and filter and
leave the sump
full. I also use a lightweight machine oil - something like 3-in-1 in a
garden handsprayer and spray it into each plug hole. I then crank the
engine with the fuel pump disconnected.
My car has fuel injection- so no fuel goes through. I also leave the
valve cover loosed
off and liberally paint the valve gear and rocker shaft with fresh oil.
I do this two or
three times each winter and leave a piece of clean oiled rag over the
valve gear and then put the valve cover loosely on top. Prior to start
up in the spring, I again run the
engine on the starter to get the oil pumped round and having also
squirted more 3-in-1 down the bores. Sure makes for smoke on start but I
know the inner bits I can't easily reach will have had an oil deposit on
them all winter long. Cheers, -Jonmac
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