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RE: painting the TR4

To: "'David Lee'" <davelee1@home.com>, triumph <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: painting the TR4
From: "Westerdale, Bob" <bwesterdale@edax.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 10:43:24 -0500charset="iso-8859-1"
David-  a few thoughts on the paintjob-
`       1.Sounds like the pinholes ( Bulleyes ) are the result of improper
preparation prior to paint, probably silicone contaminations from years of
waxing.  Unfortunately, spraying more paint on top, or even using a sealer
will probably not cover em up.  I'd suggest some vigorous sanding, probably
back down into the original paint, until you can no longer see any trace of
the dimple. then a good rub down with any of the commercial wax removers (
see your auto parts guy)
for good measure, a coat of catalyzed primer/sealer prior to paint would be
appropriate.
 
        2. Fundamental advice on Scheib style paint jobs:   Do all the prep
work yourself, as the effort in  a good paintjob is 75W% prep and 25% color
coat.   Low bucks paint shops can't spend enough time doing good prep work,
as time is money and prep is horrible, slow, fatiguing work. The value in
using a low bucks paintshop is that the guy with the paint gun has sprayed a
lot of cars, and has enough on the job experience to apply the paint
successfully.  Gun technique is a bit of an art,  and most of these shops
have at least one painter who has gotten pretty good at it.  The prep work
is usually relegated to the shop Knuckle Dragger, who has just advanced from
'towel man' at the carwash.  
        
Unfortunately, you now have a car with some nasty, half buried paint
problems. If you want to return to the low bucks shop,  first make sure
every square inch of paintable surface is sanded, clean and smooth.  remove
anything that they would have trouble taping, i.e. chrome letters bumpers,
antennae, etc.  Use compressed air to blow the dust out of every possible
hole/crack seam.  If you don't, the air from the paint gun will clean out
the cracks, usually on the worst possible place.  Try to get them to paint
it on a nice dry, 70's day, so the paint will dry at an optimum rate and
they will have less likelihood of water in the airlines, etc.  All this
extra work on your part is the reason the paintjob costs $200, not $1200.  
Good Luck!      
Bob Westerdale
>snip

I picked up the car Friday at around 1:30.  Apparently it was painted that
morning and the paint hadnt even dried.  Touching it left permanent prints
and even rubbed the paint into wrinkles.  Agreeing that this was unaceptable
the manager informed me that he would reshoot the car this next weekend.
Until it dried completely I opted to take the car so I could finish up on
some other repairs.  The finish is very ugly.  It looks nothing like the
other cars I had seen at the shop or my co-workers.  The hood has tons of
tiny pinholes in the paint.  It looks almost like there wasnt enough paint
applied there.

On curves and small areas the paint is nice and smooth and shiny.  No
pinholes to give it that rough look.  I asked about this and they told me
buffing the paint in a few weeks would take care of it.  Would buffing the
car be enough or should they have painted the car differently?  I dont have
enough experience with paint to diagnose what the problem is but it looks
grainy.  Not orange peel just millions of those tiny pinholes that make the
reflection turn from mirror like to hazy.  I dont know if its overspray or
not enough paint or the painted surface not being sanded smooth enough.
Almost looks like I tried to paint it with a huge can of spray paint!!!

Anyhow thanks for all your help!
David Lee
64 TR4 (Ugly Blue)




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