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Re: TR3 - Installing Head studs.

To: "Adrian Jones" <AdrianJones@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: TR3 - Installing Head studs.
From: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 21:38:36 -0000charset="iso-8859-1"
Cc: "List Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <200003190740_MC2-9DAC-329C@compuserve.com>
Hi Adrian
Fitting the studs should be easier than you think, if the threads have all
been cleaned and the holes cleaned out with a tap then the studs should
screw in with your fingers! Make sure you fit the right end in the block as
they are generally different lengths and often have a small groove cut up
the end that fits into the block (metal end) and not on the end that takes
the nut (nut end). If not then the two nuts works, don't spin the first nut
all the way down in case they move as this could damage the nut, the top nut
is the one you should use  the spanner on for installing the studs, lock the
two together first! Loctite, your choice, it will probably break when you
torque the head down! Re torque (will break Loctite on the nuts,so don't use
any here)  the head as often as you like, it may be overkill but I do mine,
heat and cool = re-torque, 500 miles = re-torque, 1000 miles = re-torque and
then every time the mileage passes a multiple of 25,000 miles, I have still
had head gaskets blow but I feel better knowing the head is torqued down
regularly, I feel I have done everything in my power to prevent them going.
When they have gone it has often been after extremely hard work, the last
one went after I used my 2000 MKI to tow a large trailer with a Dolomite
Sprint on it. I would have towed it on a rope or bar but I thought it (the
car not the rope) may snap in two!

Graham.

----- Original Message -----
From: Adrian Jones <AdrianJones@compuserve.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 12:39 PM
Subject: TR3 - Installing Head studs.


>
> Hi Folks,
> Is there a proper technique for installing cylinder head studs?
> As I'll be putting in new studs, nuts and washers, I don't want to mess it
> up.
>
> A "double-nut" method is used in the Haynes manual - it shows two
> spanners/wrenches being used.
>
> Do you just spin two nuts down the stud and install by tightening on the
> top one, at the same time gripping the lower one with a wrench?
> Is the first nut spun all the way to the bottom of the threads?
> Is Loctite used on the threads going into the block?
> How tight?
> When the head goes on, is Locktite used on the nuts?
> What's the current thinking on " rechecking the torque after 500 miles" or
> "retorquing after its warmed up and cooled down"?
> Am I thinking too much?
>
> Many Thanks,  Adrian (Anxiously waiting on news from machine shop re.
head)



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