Actually, per the service manual for TR-3's,you are to tighten the nut to
about 10 ft-lb torque, thne back off 1 to 1 1/2 flats. This will give a
little play, but you do NOT want to over tighten. Only those bearings
requiring a pre-load will do well like this . Over tightening will quickly
destroy all others.
On Tue, 11 Apr 2000, Mark Macy wrote:
>
> Warren Allen wrote:
> 2. Front wheel bearing adjustment: I turn the
> castellated nut on the front wheel hub until it binds,
> then back it off until it's free. If I back it
> off until it's completely free, there is (it seems to
> me) excessive play. But when I tighten it up one more
> flat, It's not completely free. In other words, if I
> give the wheel a spin, it doesn't go as long before
> stopping. So my choices seem to be slight binding or
> excessive play. I've chosen excessive play, but I'm
> still not happy. Any ideas?
>
> Warren:
> My grandfather was a mechanic from the early 20's on,
> and he showed me many years ago that if you tighten
> the wheel bearing nut too tightly, you won't be able
> to move the washer with a screwdriver. Loosen the nut
> just enough that you can just slide the big washer
> ever so slightly with a screwdriver inserted in the
> space between the hub and the edge of the washer.
> You'll find that this is not tight enough to burn up
> the bearing, and it won't feel loose either. It's
> worked for me for nearly 30 years now, and I've never
> had a wheel bearing problem on my Street Rods, Daily
> Drivers, and LBC's. Mark Macy.
>
>
>
James A. Ruffner
|