Rich :
Since the bleed screw (as well as the pipe nut) is steel, but the
cylinder is aluminum, heat works very well. Remove the piston, seal and
dust cover, as well as the rubber dust cover around the e-brake lever,
then heat the threaded part of the cylinder with a propane torch.
For the nipple that's already broken, get an "Eazy-out" the right size
to fit the hole, and turn gently! while heating the cylinder. It may
take a few minutes, but when the cylinder gets hot enough, the nipple
will be loose.
Don't worry, a propane torch won't get things hot enough to hurt
anything here, although you might want to have a fire extinguisher
handy, in case you get a grease fire started.
Randall
59 TR3A
Richard White wrote:
>
> Lister,
>
> Two weeks ago I found enough nerve to try starting my B after about
> seven year "rest". I have the engine running, no real problems
> just a stuck float and a couple of carb gaskets. Today I tried to
> bleed the brakes and now I need some advice.
>
> Both rear bleeder nipples were stuck. The DCO, me, proceeded to break one of
> them. It is broken even with the wheel cylinder.
>
> How do I fix the broken one? Do I need to just replace the wheel
> cylinder?
>
> How do I get the other one out with out breaking it.
>
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF587L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
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