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re: OD A-Type - Dismantling Question

To: "sanborn@net1plus.com" <sanborn@net1plus.com>, Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net> charset=ISO-8859-1
Subject: re: OD A-Type - Dismantling Question
From: Anthony Rhodes <ARhodes@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 15:07:20 -0400
>From: Brian Sanborn <sanborn@net1plus.com>
>Subject: OD  A-Type -- Dismantling Question
>
>Lister,
>
>To well of knowledge again.
>
>I am trying to gently dismantle my OD.  It is separated from the GBX and it 
>looks very clean and no signs of >heavy wear.  There are some metal bits about 
>the size of rice or smaller in the bottom of the front casing from >the mashed 
>swirl gear on the annulus shaft.  I can see that through the hole where there 
>was no speed drive >assembly installed.  The was also no front cover on GBX 
>and a bent cross shaft with evidence of a "bad thing" >happening with the 
>clutch.  I am assuming a racing history, although I have no info at all.
>
>To the question... I can't seem to get the back half to separate from the 
>front half.  The previous rebuilder used >a very strong sealer that is dark 
>red in color on both sides of the brake ring.  I have used the trusy rubber 
>mallet >on the mounting feet to try to break the seal to no avail.  My next 
>step was to use a brass drift and hammer on >the protruding tabs of the brake 
>ring.  I am afraid to bend or otherwise damge the ring. It is likely made of 
>>unobtainium.
>
>I have a 12 ton shop press in the "mail" from HB that I plan to use for the 
>rebuild.  Is there a trick to getting these >apart safely?
>
><


Hello!

I Just had similar trouble.  THe OD would not come apart.  I fiddled with it 
and it finally did.

With the OD off the car, I suspended the od off the ground with a rope through 
the
transmission mounting holes.  I then used a hard plastic mallet (heavy) to 
whack the
output shaft.  THe OD came apart pretty quickly then.

I had a well padded landing area for the  rest of the OD when it dropped off..

If you need to lever on the brake ring, be VERY careful.  They are not 
available (AFAIK).
ALso be very careful because the mating alumiun surface is not supposed to need
anything to help it seal!   I used a sealer when I re did mine a couple of 
weeks ago.

I tried levering on the brake ring but gave up.  Hammering on the optput shaft 
did the trick
nicely.

If the OD looks to be in such bad shape internally, you must inspect everythng 
very well.
If there is too much damage, it will not be worth fixing.  DId it work before 
you removed it?

Critical areas are the operating pistons and their aluminum cylinders.  No way 
to fix the
cylinders that I know.  Never heard of getting them re-lined.

Also, if the clutch is shot, it is not "supposed" to be re-line-able.  WHen new 
the linings were
turned on a lathe to be perfectly circular and of the proper thickness.

The brass bushing inside the body of the OD is not coinsidered field 
seriviceable because it was
line bored at the factory.  If you could get a new bush, I suppose it could be 
done at a shop.

The brake rings COULD be replaced, but are not easily available.  In addition, 
they never wear out in
nearly every case.

All the other wear items are replaceable and pretty easily available except the 
0.113/0.114 adjusting
washer.  (my mechanic and I got the last 2 we could find).

Have fun measuring the sunwheel end float.  I thing I got a pretty reproducible 
technique.  It is glossed
over in the manual, but it is actually a pain in the neck.  I will tell you 
about this when you get to it.

Let me know if you have more trouble getting it apart.

-Tony


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