a Wallace wrote:
> Well it poured rain in the afternoon here yesterday, so I couldn't keep
> fixing the back porch. Drat. So I got the engine w/tranny out and on the
> bench, and the head off the motor, and now I have a few questions for you
> experienced folk:
>
> **this is a post 60K ~Dec. 1960 car**
>
> 1. Was the original head gasket copper both sides, yet a laminated type?
>
Yes, it is copper on both sides, with an asbestos core.
> Just wondering how to tell if this engine has been rebuilt before (the car
> was registered in 62, and has been sitting since 70, with 50,000 on the
> clock, which could be real...kind of rusty though).
Only real way is to check the diameter of the pistons (original TR-3A is
83mm, TR-3B is 87mm), or look at the crank and see if it has been stamped as
having been re-ground. (The crank will have something like 0.010, or 0.020
stamped. There will also be either an R for rods, or M for mains.)
>
>
> 2. In several places the coolant holes in the head gasket seem like they
> are much smaller, or even slightly in the wrong place, compared to the
> holes in the block. The most obvious example is the two holes just inside
> the front two head bolts, which partly cover the coolant passageways in the
> block.
This is as they should be.
>
> a) Is this the way it's supposed to be?
> Yes.
>
> b) Would there be a benefit to having those holes enlarged in the (next)
> head gasket, or were they actually trying to restrict the flow this way?
Yes, there would be, but don't do this with an original gasket.
> c) Are the holes in those solid copper replacement gaskets the same as
> original?
I've never seen the solid copper replacements, so don't know.
>
>
> 3. Now I have the struggle of deciding how far to go with the rebuild. So
> far it looks like the cylinders are good; there's no scoring or anything,
> but it is 83mm....
> a) should I replace the pushrods
Originals are hollow.
> with the hollow ones I've heard of?
> b) how can I tell if the valve springs are up to snuff? I guess I could put
> a weight on them and measure the change in height - anyone know the spring
> rates for the 5 springs involved?
Best with an engine this old to replace all the valve springs.
>
> c) unless they seem really perfect, I think I will replace the valve guides
> - are the upgrades bronze, or some other alloy, and what's the good source
> - BPNW? Bronze are best. Try TRF
>
> 4. There are all kinds of things I could do of course, but I have to hold
> the (fiscal) line to some extent. What I really want is long-term
> reliability, even ruggedness, out of the engine. I would therefore
> appreciate a bit of guidance on where to direct my money - for example, if
> all is well with my 83mm pistons and liners I may not spend the $ to
> automatically move up to 87mm, if the same money could be invested in such
> a way that I could have enough confidence to take the car on a very long trip.
>
Both the 83mm and 87mm's are equally reliable. If you do a full rebuild, and
wish
to spend the money, the cylinders/pistons are $400-500 a set, I believe, but you
better check. However, I would also double check all the front suspension
first!
Cheers.
>
> I guess I really have 8 questions. Apologies in advance for the length.
> Regards,
> Jim Wallace
> TS81417L
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