Hi Brice
I don't know which is the correct size for the TR6, I have a sedan which is
the same engine /Basic box, I believe the input shaft dia differs between
the two, also I believe the TR6 Box comes out upwards through the car as the
chassis prevents removal downwards, the sedan comes out downwards as the
tunnel for the box is fixed in. Once you have the tunnel cover removed from
your car it should be easy to get the bolts over the top, unlike the sedan
where you have to lower the back of the box slightly then feed about 2 1/2
feet of extensions up through the gear stick hole to reach the top nuts,
there are other methods but I have found that way is quickest! Yes get the
release bearing, it is probably that making all the noise, and no it is not
worth changing only that, whilst you are doing the hard labour, I would say
change it all, including the taper bolt that holds the release bearing fork
to the cross shaft, others on the list have gone even further and added a
roll pin through the assembly to increase the strength. I would also fit new
bearings for the cross shaft, I generally fit the new ones in addition to
the old ones though it would be better to get four new ones and remove the
old ones completely. The quiet whirring noise is quite common and perfectly
acceptable, you could possibly remedy that with a gearbox rebuild but it
often remains to some extent, so I wouldn't bother unless you feel a touch
of shipwrights coming on! Whilst you are under the car it would be worth
pulling the boot on the slave cylinder and seeing if it is wet inside, if it
is wet rather than just having a light film of fluid on the bore, you may as
well do the seal on the slave cyl, or have I got shipwrights now!
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryce Milton" <Bryce@Milton.com>
To: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 1:54 AM
Subject: Re: TR6 Clutch job
> Thanks for the reply. When I went to the local parts store, they had
> two clutch kits available, an AC Delco 6" and 7" both for $152 and Moss is
> showing just one type from either Borg&Beck or LUK. Would I also need a
> release bearing ($45)? What all do I need and where's the best source? I
> only hear noise when the clutch is depressed (gear selected or not), but
it
> engages firmly without obvious slippage when the clutch is out. A quiet
> whirring can also be heard when the car is neutral and the clutch is out
> with the engine idling, the nastiest sounds are be heard when the clutch
is
> in. I put it on jack stands and took a look today and was wondering how
> tough it is to get the bell housing unbolted (hard to get at the top
> bolts?). After I get those loose, how to proceed?
>
> -Bryce
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