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Re: Skid plate again

To: a Wallace <wallaces@superaje.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Skid plate again
From: "Michael D. Porter" <mporter@zianet.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 20:33:23 -0600
Delivered-to: alias-outgoing-triumphs@autox.team.net@outgoing
Organization: Barely enough
References: <5.0.2.1.0.20010415210810.009d1a50@mail.superaje.com>
a Wallace wrote:

> Now when I go out and look at the frame of the car, the width looks fine,
> but using either of 8.13 or 8.69" looks too big, unless I lose the "angle
> iron" piece that is presently in place immediately below the rad. Then, it
> looks like the triangular support pieces on the skid plate could interfere
> with the bottom tank of the radiator.
> Clear as mud? OK, so if anyone could shed some opacity...
> -anybody out there actually have a skid plate on their car?
> -did the frame under the rad change at all between the TR2 and TR3?
> -I am not a draughtsman; am I just misinterpreting the drawings?

Keep in mind that this plate was devised for the TR2 (circa. 1954), so
there may be some variations in radiator mounting from then to yours.
But, after checking the drawing, the width you cite is correct (18.25"),
but the plate, front to back, is slightly shorter than you calculate.
The sheared size should be 15-1/2" (4-3/4 + 3 + 3 + 2-3/4 + 3/8 +
1-5/8). The finished length will be somewhat shorter than that, due to
the angle at the front, somewhere around 14-3/4"). 

The stiffening gussets may well be located as they are in the drawing
because the TR2 radiator may be slightly narrower than for later models
(core of the TR3A radiator is 12-1/2" wide, minus the side shields). I
think all you need to do is fit the gussets to the inside of the frame
rails so that when the assembly is fitted, the gussets are snug inside
the frame rails and are on either side of the bottom header tank, rather
than underneath the tank (which they would be with the 12" dimension
shown). This might also require some alteration of location of the
mounting holes, but the general layout and size of the plate will
probably do. 

For speculation's purposes, try making a piece to size out of cardboard,
leaving the gussets loose, and just fitting that to the car, paying
particular attention to the location of the wide slot for drain access.
>From that, you should be able to determine what dodges are required to
make the plate fit the later car. Sometimes, CAD (cardboard-assisted
design) is preferable to guesswork. <smile>

Cheers, Jim.

-- 
Michael D. Porter
Roswell, NM (yes, _that_ Roswell)
[mailto:mporter@zianet.com]

`70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
`64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
`80 TR7 (3.8 liter Buick-powered)
`86 Nissan 300ZX (the minimal-maintenance road car)
`68 VW Type II Camper (Lancia twin-cam powered, but feeling its age....)

Remember:  Math and alcohol do not mix... do not drink and derive.

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