Dave :
With the control head out of the steering column, turn on the turn
signal switch, and turn the flat ring (the one that gets trapped by the
grub screws) the opposite way. (That is, if you've moved the TS switch
clockwise, turn the ring CCW.) Then repeat test turning the switch the
other way. If it cancels now, the problem is the flat ring not being
trapped by the grub screws. If not, the problem is inside the
mechanism. (Unless of course, your problem is that the whole head
turns, which indicates a problem with the stator tube.)
To disassemble the head, remove the three screws near the outer edge on
the back, and remove the front cover, horn button and spring. There is
a button in the center of the horn contacts that may or may not come
loose at this point. If it does, remove it. Then turn the flat ring so
the holes line up with the three screws under it, remove the screws and
lift away the ring assy, wavy round spring and cancelling ring. Try not
to loose the screws, they're pure unobtanium. If you're doing this in
the car, a towel on your lap is a good idea. Now remove the horn
contacts by holding the two brass nuts in the back (one with wire to
horns, the other with the brass ground ring) and undoing the screws that
hold the horn contacts in place. Remove the contacts, along with the
center button if it didn't come out before. Also remove the nuts and
remaining wires (leave the sixth nut alone for now), and the screw and
operating lever.
Now, remove the last nut and single screw that runs all the way
through. Holding the back of the unit down, lift away the larger
plate. If you're lucky, all the little bits will stay in place so you
can see how they go. Hopefully, inside of a month or so, I'll have the
digital camera fired up and can take some photos. (Yeah, right <g>)
Basically, in the end of the piece that carries the lever, there is a
spring-loaded roller. When the lever is moved to either 'on' position,
the roller presses against a little pivoted square plunger, that moves
so it sticks out to be hit by the cam on the cancelling ring. If the
ring is moving the wrong direction, the plunger just pivots, but if it's
moving the right direction, the plunger forces the roller inwards, so
the force from one of the two springs can move the lever back to the
center position. Note when reassembling, the angled end of the plunger
matches the angle of the opening. Also, there should be brass
lockwashers under all the brass nuts. Replacement washers may be
available at model hobby shops.
Unfortunately, AFAIK the internals were never serviced separately. The
only source of spare parts is other disassembled heads. However, I've
resuscitated them several times just by thorough cleaning and
lubrication, preferably with a high quality 'dry' lubricant like
Lubriplate or CRC Moly Lube. Powdered graphite would probably also
work.
Randall
David Willett & Carol Gray wrote:
>
> However, having opened up the steering control head and peered
> inside, I feel in need of some advice as to how to proceed, and I
> find that neither Bentley nor Haynes are particularly forthcoming in
> this area.Is there anything out there?
///
/// triumphs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// To unsubscribe send a plain text message to majordomo@autox.team.net
/// with nothing in it but
///
/// unsubscribe triumphs
///
///
|