Even the chassis is optional !
I would suggest using a starter solenoid for the starter connection, as
just touching the wire sometimes causes a spot weld and damages
components. If you have the original type solenoid, you can just push
the button, otherwise you will need to ground the body of the solenoid
and run a temporary jumper as Dave suggests. Note that the ground
side (either + or -, as it suits you) of the battery must be connected
to the engine block somehow, the strap at the LH motor mount is easily
overlooked.
If you're going to run the engine for more than just a couple of
seconds, you will need to connect and fill the radiator. You can either
run a hose across the heater connections as Dave suggests, or just plug
them both. To run more than a few minutes, you'll need a source of
airflow through the radiator, a household "box fan" works fine.
If you don't have the driveshaft connected, one "quick and dirty" test
of the OD is to hook up a timing light, and shine it on the output
flange. With the engine running and the trans in 4th direct, the flange
should appear to be stationary, in 4th OD it will appear to turn.
A little sniff of starting ether will frequently help get an engine
started the first time.
This exercise can be done with the exhaust system disconnected (although
I would suggest at least bolting up the exhaust manifold <g>). If you
do, be aware that the mixture will be way off, the engine will run lean
and likely blow fire out the exhaust. However, best not to do this at
3AM, unless your neighbors are either _very_ deaf, or live a long way
away <g>
I agree with Dave, it _is_ neat ! Talk about "sometimes the magic
works" !
Randall
> > Can one start a '3 without the body? If so, what would be required?
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